Authenticity and Counterfeiting: A Qualitative Study in a Babadağlılar Textile Bazaar, Turkey

Authenticity and counterfeiting are inversely related constructs. They have sociological,psychological, economic consequences and both find meaning in a specific context. For an artisan authenticityin self and product are intertwined since he/she directly adds value to the product in means of authenticity. Asauthenticity is the core value for handmade textile products, this paper discusses historical background,perceptions, and the business practices on authenticity and counterfeiting among artisans, in a textile bazaar inTurkey. The authenticity dilemma and counterfeiting among artisans have been investigated through qualitativeanalysis. Face to face interviews were conducted in a traditional textile bazaar, Denizli, Turkey. The interviewswere conducted during 2015 and two visits were made in 2017 and 2018 for observation. Since the datacollection process took place before 2020, ethics committee approval has not been obtained. As a result of theresearch, it was found that artisans considered akhism to be the source of authenticity. Abolished completelyin 1913, Akhism is a historical guild organization that centered on the Islamic faith. It has been observed thatthe idealized value system derived from the Akhi-order, and the mechanisms that accelerate counterfeiting leadto an authenticity dilemma. Based on the post-secular theory, it is argued that individualized Islamic beliefenhances authenticity via attained different understandings whereas counterfeiting is mainly related to thesources of the artisans. From this aspect, the research aims to add insights to the production side ofcounterfeiting among artisans. The study also intends to contribute to the transdisciplinary interest inauthenticity literature from business practices and understandings’ perspective.

Özgünlük ve Taklit: Türkiye’de Babadağlılar Tekstil Pazarında Nitel Bir Çalışma

Özgünlük ve taklit birbiriyle zıt anlamda ilişkili kavramlardır. Bu kavramlar, belirli bir bağlamda anlam kazanır ve her ikisinin de soyolojik, psikolojik ve ekonomik sonuçları bulunmaktadır. Bir zaaatkar, ürünün değerini özgünlük üzerinden kazandırdığı için, bireyin özgünlüğü ve üründeki özgünlük birbirleyle ilişkilidir. Özgünlüğün el ürünü tekstil ürünlerinde temel değer olmasından hareketle, bu makale Türkiye’de bir tekstil pazarında zanaatkârların özgünlük ve taklite ilişkin uygulamalarını, algılamalarını ve tarihsel arka planı tartışmaktadır. Zanaatkârlar arasındaki özgünlük ve taklit ikilemi nitel analiz ve yazın taraması üzerinden incelenmiştir. Türkiye Denizli’de bulunan geleneksel bir tekstil pazarında yüz yüze görüşmeler yapılmıştır. Görüşmeler 2015 yılında gerçekleştirilmiş olup, 2017 ve 2018 yıllarında gözlem amacıyla iki ziyaret gerçekleştirilmiştir. Veri toplama süreci 2020 öncesinde olduğu için, bu araştırma için etik onam formu alınmamıştır. Araştırma sonucunda, zanaatkârların ahiliği özgünlüğün kaynağı olarak nitelendirdikleri bulunmuştur. 1913’te tamamen ortadan kaldırılan ahilik, İslam inancını merkeze alan tarihi bir lonca teşkilatıdır. Ahilikten kaynağını alan idealize edilmiş değerler sistemi ve taklitçiliği hızlandıran mekanizmaların özgünlüğü çıkmaza sürüklediği görülmüştür. Postseküler teoriyi temel alarak, bireysel İslami inancın farklı anlamlara açık olması nedeniyle özgünlüğü sağladığı, taklitçiliğin ise zanaatkârın kaynaklarıyla ilişkili olduğu iddia edilmektedir. Bu yönüyle çalışma zanaatkârlar arasındaki taklit üretim sürecinin iç yüzünü anlamaya katkı sağlamayı hedeflemektedir. Çalışma, aynı zamanda özgünlük alanyazınına iş süreçleri ve anlayışları itibariyle katkı sağlamayı amaçlamaktadır.

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