HALK GİYİM KUŞAMININ YOK OLMASINA İLİŞKİN NEDENLER VE KORUMA ALTINA ALINMASI GEREKLİLİĞİNİN 5N1K YÖNTEMİ İLE ANALİZİ

Küresel moda ile birlikte estetik anlayışının hızla değişmesi ve farklı bakış açılarının gündemde olması gelenekli toplumlarda halk giysileri ve bunlara ilişkin uygulamaların gündemden kalkmasına neden olmaktadır. Geçmişe dair maddi varlığı dayanıksız özelliklere bağlı, kullanımı geniş zaman dilimlerine yayılan halk giysileri gibi kültür varlıkları hakkında bilgi verebilmek ve tanımlamalar yapabilmek oldukça zordur. Bu tür giysiler genellikle saray ve soyluların çevresinde kullanılanlar ile sınırlı kalmış, halkın kullandığı giysilere ait değerlendirmeler bunların ışığında yapılmıştır. Bu tür eserlerin yok olması ile belgelendirme, saklama, koruma ve gelecek kuşaklara iletilme durumu tartışılması gereken önemli bir problem olarak görülmüştür. Bu çalışmada; giysilerin kullanımdan kalkması, orijinalliğinin bozulması, yozlaştırılması, el değiştirmesi, parçalarının kaybolması veya orijinal kullanım biçimlerinin ortadan kalkma nedenlerinin nelerden kaynaklandığı belirlenerek, giysilerin işlevleri, hangi ortam ve şartlarda kullanıldıkları ortaya konularak, neden koruma altına alınması gerekliliği 5N1K yöntemi ile açıklanmış ve konuya ilişkin öneriler getirilmeye çalışılmıştır. Konuya ilişkin sorunlar ve çözüm önerileri iki başlık altıda gruplandırılmıştır. Soyut etkenler; "küreselleşme ile birlikte giysilere ilişkin kültürel değerlerin önemini yitirmesi", "giysilerin yozlaştırılması" ve "moda bilincinin yaygınlaşması, modern ve pratik giysilerin gündemde olması", somut etkenler; "giysilere ilişkin yörelere ait orijinal malzemelerin kullanımdan "müzeleme, saklama, koruma ve onarım" olarak tespit edilmiştir. bulunamaması", kalkması, "giysi parçalarının kaybolması, kullanım özelliklerinin değişmesi" ile Çalışma temel olarak iki açıdan önem arz etmektedir. İlki günümüzde giderek önemi ve kullanım alanlarının azaldığı belirlenen yöresel halk giyim kuşamının koruma altına alınma ve belgelendirilmesi gerekliliğini vurgulamaktır. Konuya ilişkin getirilen önerilerin ulusal ve kültürel değerlerin kalıcılığının sağlanmasında ve gelecek kuşaklara aktarılmasında önemli rol oynayacağı ve araştırmacılara yol gösterici zemin hazırlayacağı ikinci önemli katkı olarak görülmektedir

THE ANALISIS OF WHY REGIONAL FOLK COSTUMES DISSAPPEAR AND NECCESSITY OF PROTECTION WITH USING 5W1H METHOD

The Clothes that has reflect the social, cultural, geographic features and even the life philosophy of societies throughout the history, take part in the development document of human history. After noticing the covering requirements that was actually created for the protection needs of the body, they started to attribute a meaning to the clothes in time. The object, colours, style, methods of use, style of dress of the clothes that were shaped with the current value judgement, accepted cults and traditions have been created with a complex structure in all societies. With global fashion, rapid change in aesthetics and consisting of different perspectives cause falling off the agenda of folk costumes and their practices in traditional societies. It is hardly to inform and identify about cultural property such as folk costumes that the usage of wide period of time. Because, they are instable and they cannot be preserved about their past tangible asset. This kind of clothes used with only courtiers and the evaluation of clothing, which is used by the public, was made in the light of this idea. In the condition of disappearing these kind of works, certification, reservation, protection and the situation of transmitting to the other generations can be seen significantly debatable issue. In this work, By determining the reason why disappearance of using clothes, deterioration and corruption of originality, changing hand, loss of parts or causing the disappearance of the original usage patterns and by revealing the function of clothes and conditions and environment where they are used, the necessity of why they have to protect with using 5W1H method and suggestions about the issue was worked. The problems of this issue and the solutions were grouped under the headings. Abstract factors; “the loss of cultural values on clothing with the effect of globalization”, “corruption of clothes” and “becoming widespread of fashion consciousness, remaining on the agenda of modern and practical clothing” and concrete factors; “lacking of original material belonging to the area on clothes”, “loss, abolishing or changing the usage of piece of clothing” “exhibiting, preserving, reserving and repairing” were determined. The study is crucial for two aspects. Firstly, putting under protection of traditional folk clothing and necessity of documentation was emphasized. Secondly, this work makes a contribution to suggestion about this issue, remaining of values and transmitting into younger generations and it will lead other studies about this issue. Although the importance of the clothes that have been used by people and the each of them has different value is emphasized in the related platforms, to disuse, to be destroyed of originals, to corruption, to change hands, to loss of the pieces or to change of the style of original usage of these clothes are unavoidable. In order to maintain regional clothes continuity that is tired with at least based upon the customs and tradition of some regions at the present time, ıt can be only possible with to take precautions and to determine the factors that can cause to lose this values’ significance. Nowadays, the understanding of clothes got over from the folk culture with the effect of global culture, and It entered into the mass culture and ıt got rid of the situation of different from each other and finally it was formed within the situation of the same structure. This annihilation speeds up the forgotten of the values of material cultures and the values of moral cultures. This situation causes the loss in the regional culture values, therefore it brings a corruption in the level of traditions related to regional clothes. Necessity of the priority certification of this values and protection of them have importance day by day. Related to issues such as uncontrolled, low quality, and infidelity, the problems that are to degenerate, to misquote, and to misunderstand of the clothes cultures that its history goes back and its cultural accumulation takes years, make a current issue. Design, use, leave motifs and technical characteristics of the place and manner of unfounded and unappealing form is among the indicators of corruption. The new age of way of dressing was started in turkey starting with the Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s speech in the İnebolu Türkocağı 26 August 1925 after the foundation of the republic and legalised clothing reform in the 25 November 1925. The fashion has an important impact on both identification of the styles related to identities and persons and adoption of the styles created by the manufacturers of the clothing industry. The usage and the manufacture of the clothes that is based on the hand work was shortened with the manufacture methods developed with the Industrial Revolution and many products disappeared with the necessities of the time. In addition to this, many of them changed its function and they found new areas of usage or changed hands with different aims. the satisfactory level of the quality of the material was precluded depending upon the causes such as absence of the used original raw material and the decrease of the numbers of loom, regional stitchery and suturing masters in the changing living condition nowadays etc. The demand for the regional clothes was diminished with the usage of modern and practical clothes increased by fashion or it caused to fall off the agenda. Textile-based products have fast wearing structure affected by the environmental aspects such as air, light, dirt, dust, damp, insect etc. and it requires special conditions for protection and preservation. The works of clothes located in the museums are not keep under suitable conditions in the warehouses. The absences of the repair, protection of the clothes and recording of the inventory information is found. In our country, lack of adequate laboratory on clothing repair, cleaning and protection works to be done make essential the such services to be made in the laboratory and international experts brought in from abroad. The other important point to be highlighted is the issue of awareness of the people’s protection of cultural values, preservation of clothings in terms of storage and use.

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