METAL KAPLI HİBRİD İPLİK İÇEREN DOKUMA KUMAŞLARIN DÖKÜMLÜLÜK, EĞİLME VE ŞEKİL VERİLEBİLME ÖZELLİKLERİNİN İNCELENMESİ

Metal lif ya da filament içeren ipliklerden oluşan yeni tekstil yapıları fonksiyonellik açısından değerlendirilmiş olmakla birlikte giysi üretiminde kullanılabilirlikleri açısından incelenmemiştir. Bu çalışmada, bu yeni yapılar, kumaşın beden şekline göre dikilebilme ve vücuda uygunluğu açısından değerlendirilmiştir. Bu amaçla, metal kaplı hibrid iplikler kullanılarak farklı örgü tiplerinde dokunan kumaşların eğilme rijitliği, şekil verilebilirlik ve dökümlülük katsayıları ölçülmüş ve metal kaplı hibrid iplik içermeyen dokuma kumaşlar ile karşılaştırılmıştır. Ölçülen bu parametrelere ait sonuçlar ve bu parametreler arasındaki ilişkiler istatistiksel olarak değerlendirilmiş ve söz konusu parametrelerin dikilebilme ve vücuda uygunluk üzerideki etkileri açıklanmıştır. Elde edilen sonuçlar, bu tip yapıların giysinin bütününde kullanılmasından ziyade bir katman olarak giysi yapısına katıldığında dikilebilirlik ve vücuda uygunluk açısından daha iyi sonuçlar vereceğini kantitatif olarak doğrulamıştır

Anahtar Kelimeler:

Pamuk ipliği, hibrid iplik, metal tel, dokuma kumaş, dökümlülük katsayısı, eğilme rijitliği, şekil verilebilirlik, dikilebilirlik, vücuda uygunluk

EVALUATION OF DRAPE, BENDING AND FORMABILITY OF WOVEN FABRICS MADE FROM METAL COVERED HYBRID YARNS

The novel textile structures including yarns with metal fibres or filaments have been investigated in terms of functionality, but not in terms of their ability to be manufactured into a garment. In this study, these novel structures were evaluated from the point of view of tailorability and fit. For this purpose, bending rigidity, formability and drape coefficient of woven fabrics produced from metal covered hybrid yarns in different weaves were measured and compared with the fabrics woven without metal wire. The results of these parameters and their relationships were assessed statistically with the explanations of their influence on tailorability and fit. The results confirmed quantitatively that these structures could provide better fit and tailorability when they were applied as a layer into a garment rather than being used in the whole garment production

Keywords:

Cotton yarn, hybrid yarn, metal wire, woven fabric, drape coefficient, bending rigidity, formability, tailorability, fit,

PDF

___

1. Turkoglu, Y. (2010), “Investigation of Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness and Comfort Properties of Single Jersey Fabrics Knitted from Composite Yarns Containing Metal Wire”, MSc Thesis, Erciyes University, Kayseri, Turkey.
2. Alagirusamy, R., and Das, A. (2010), “Technical Texile Yarns”, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC, FL, USA.
3. Cheng, K. B., Lee, M. L., Ramakrishna, S. and Ueng, T. H. (2001), “Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness of Stainless Steel/Polyester Woven Fabrics”, Textile Research Journal, 71(1), 42-39.
4. Ueng, T. H., Cheng, K. B. (2001), “Friction Core-Spun Yarns for Electrical Properties of Woven Fabrics”, Composites Part A: Applied Science and Manufacturing, Vol: 32, 1491-1496.
5. Cheng, K. B., Cheng, T. W., Lee, K. C., Ueng, T. H., Hsing, W. H. (2003), “Effects of Yarn Constitutions and Fabric Specifications on Electrical Properties of Hybrid Woven Fabrics”, Composites Part A: Applied Science and Manufacturing, 34, 971- 978.
6. Su C.I. and Chern J.T. (2004), “Effect of Stainless Steel Containing Fabrics on Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness”, Textile Research Journal, (74), 51-54.
7. Cheng K.B., Cheng T.W., Nadaraj R.N., Giri Dev V.R. and Neelakandan R. (2006), “Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness of the Twill Copper Woven Fabrics”, Journal of Reinforced Plastics and Composites, 25(7), 699-709.
8. Lou, C.W., Liu, H.H. (2007), “Process and Anti-electrostatic Properties of Knitted Fabric Made from Hybrid Staple/metallic-core Spun Yarn”, Journal of Advanced Materials, January, 39, 11-16.
9. Perumalraj R. and Dasaradan B.S. (2009), “Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness of Copper Core Yarn Knitted Fabrics”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 34, 149-154.
10. Ramachandran, T. & Vigneswaran, C. (2009), “Design and development of copper core conductive fabrics for smart textiles”, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 39, 81–93.
11. Perumalraj R. and Dasaradan B. S. (2010), “Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness of Doubled Copper Cotton Yarn Woven Materials”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 18(3), 274-280.
12. Das A., Kothari V.K., Kothari A. and Kumar A. (2009), “Effect of Various Parameters on Emse of Textile Fabrics”, Indian Journal of Fibre &Textile Research, (34), 144- 148.
13. Duran, D. and Kadoglu, H. (2012), “A Research on Electromagnetic Shielding with Copper Core Yarns”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 22(4), 354-359.
14. Ceken, F., Kayacan, O., Özkurt, A & Uğurlu, S.S. (2012), “The electromagnetic shielding properties of some conductive knitted fabrics produced on single or double needle bed of a flat knitting machine”, The Journal of the Textile Institute, 103:9, 968-979.
15. Ortlek, H.G., Gunesoglu, C., Okyay, G. and Turkoglu, Y. (2012), “Investigation of Electromagnetic Shielding and Comfort Properties of Single Jersey Fabrics Knitted From Hybrid Yarns Containing Metal Wire”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 2, 90-101.
16. Bedeloglu, A. (2013), “Electrical, electromagnetic shielding and some physical properties of hybrid yarn-based knitted fabrics”, Journal of the Textile Institute, 104, 11, 1247–1257.
17. Bedeloglu, A. (2013), “Investigation of electrical, electromagnetic shielding, and usage properties of woven fabrics made from different hybrid yarns containing stainless steel wires”, Journal of the Textile Institute, 104, 12, 1359-1373.
18. Baykal, P., Signak, P. (2009), “Metal İplik İçeren Dokuma Kumaşların Performans Özelliklerinin İncelenmesi”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon (Turkish), 19(1), 39- 44.
19. Ortlek, H.G., Kilic, G., Yolacan, G., Tutak, M. (2010), “Color and whiteness properties of fabrics knitted from different hybrid core-spun yarns containing metal wire”, Fibers and Polymers, 11 (7), 1067–1074.
20. Bedeloglu, A.C., Sunter, N. and Bozkurt, Y. (2011), “Manufacturing and Properties of Yarns Containing Metal Wires”, Materials and Manufacturing Processes, 26, 1378- 1382.
21. Bedeloglu, A.C., Sunter, N., Yildirim, B. and Bozkurt, Y. (2012), “Bending and Tensile Properties of Cotton/Metal Wire Complex Yarns Produced for Electromagnetic Shielding and Conductivity Applications”, The Journal of the Textile Institute, 103:12, 1304-1311.
22. Bedeloglu, A.C. and Sunter, N. (2013), “Investigation of Polyacrylic/Metal Wire Composite Yarn Characteristics Manufactured on Fancy Yarn Machine”, Materials and Manufacturing Processes, 28:6, 650-656
23. Ceven, E.K., Sule, G., Gurarda, A. ve Ersoz, A. (2011), “Metal İplikli Dokuma Kumaşların Hava Geçirgenliği”, Uludağ University Journal of the Faculty of Engineering and Architecture (Turkish), Cilt 16, Sayı 2.
24. Horrocks A.R. and Anand S.C. “Handbook of Technical Textiles”, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC, FL, USA, 2000.
25. Perumalraj R., Dasaradhan B.S. and Nalankili, G (2010), “Copper, stainless steel, glass core yarn, and ply yarn woven fabric composite materials properties”, Journal of Reinforced Plastics and Composites, 29(20), 3074–3082.
26. Pavlinic, D.Z. and Gersak, J. (2009), “Predicting Garment Appearance Quality”, The Open Textile Journal, 2, 29-38.
27. Fan, J. and Hunter, L. (2009), Engineering Apparel Fabrics and Garments, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC, FL, USA.
28. Pan, N., Zeronian, S.H. and Ryu, H.S. (1993), “An Alternative Approach to the Objective Measurement of Fabrics”, Textile Research Journal, 63, 1, 33-43.
29. Behera, B.K. and Hari, P.K. (2010), “Woven Textile Structures, Theory and Applications”, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC, FL, USA.
30. BS 5058:1974: “Method for the assessment of drape of fabrics”.
31. Kenkare, N. and May-Plumlee, T. (2005), “Evaluation of drape characteristics in fabrics”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 17, 2, 109 – 123.
32. Palaniswamy, N.K., Mohammed, A.S. and Robert, P.W. (2007), “Balanced two-ply cotton rotor yarn”, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 32, 169-172.
33. TS 244 EN ISO 2060, (1999), “Textiles-Yarn from packages- Determination of linear density (mass per unit length) by the skein method”.
34. TS EN ISO 2062, (2010), “Textiles - Yarns from packages - Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break using constant rate of extension (CRE) tester”.
35. Baser, G. (2008), “Tekstil Mekaniğinin Temelleri, Cilt I: Lif ve İplik Mekaniği”, Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Basım Ünitesi, İzmir. 36. TS 250 EN 1049-2, (1996), Textiles-Woven Fabrics-Construction-Methods of Analysis-Part 2 Determination of Number of Threads Per Unit Length”.
37. TS 251,(2008), “Determination of Mass Per Unit Length and Mass Per Unit Area of Woven Fabrics”.
38. TS 7128 EN ISO 5084, (1998), “Textiles-Determination of thickness of textiles and textile products”.
39. ASTM D4032, (2012), “Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabric by the Circular Bend Procedure”.
40. Kayseri, G.O., Ozdil, N. and Menguc, G.S., (2012), Woven Fabrics Chapter 9: Sensorial Comfort of Textile Materials, 235-266, InTech, Croatia, ISBN 978- 953-51- 0607-4.
41. Wang, G., Postle, R. and Zhang W. (2003), “The Tailorability of Lightweight Wool and Wool-blend Fabrics”, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 94:3-4, 212-222.
42. Saville, B.P. (1999), “Physical Testing of Textiles”, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC, FL, USA.
43. George, D. and Mallery, P. (2013), “IBM SPSS Statistics 21 Step by Step: A Simple Guide and Reference”, Pearson Education.
44. Ozguney A.T., Taskin C., Ozcelik G., Gurkan P., Ozerdem A. (2009), “Handle Properties of the Woven Fabrics Made of Compact Yarns”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 19, 2, 108-113.
45. Briscoe, B.J. and Motamedi, F., (1990), “Role of Interfacial Friction and Lubrication in Yarn and Fabric Mechanics”, Textile Research Journal, 60, 697-708.
46. Abbott, G. M., (1983), “Yarn-bending and the Weighted-ring Stiffness Test”, Journal of the Textile Institute, 74, 281-286.
47. Hu, J. (2004), “Structure and Mechanics of Woven Fabrics”, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC, FL, USA.
48. Nayak, R., Padhye, R., Dhamija, S. and Kumar, V, (2013), “Sewability of Air-Jet Textured Sewing Threads in Denim”, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 8, 1, 1-11.
49. Raj, S. and Sreenivasan, S. (2009), “Total Wear Comfort Index as an Objective Parameter for Characterization of Overall Wearability of Cotton Fabrics”, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 4, 4, 29-41.
50. Kawabata S, Ito K, Niwa M (1992), “Tailoring Process Control”, Journal of The Textile Institute, 83,3, 361-374.
51. Sang-Song, L. (2003), “Using the FAST system to establish translation equations for the drape coefficient”, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, Vol: 28, No:3, 270-274.