Eylen Sema DALBAŞI, Gonca ÖZÇELİK KAYSERİ

FARKLI YAPIDAKİ PAMUKLU ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA ANTİ-PİLLİNG İŞLEMLERİNİN ETKİSİ HAKKINDA BİR ARAŞTIRMA

Pillinglenme, özellikle örme kumaşlarda karşılaşılan önemli kalite problemlerinden birisidir. Pilling oluşumu, kumaşın kullanım ömrü ve kalitesinde düşüşe sebep olabildiği ve görünümünü de olumsuz yönde etkilediği için bu problemin giderilmesi oldukça önemlidir. Bu problemi gidermek veya azaltmak için genel olarak kumaşa kimyasal bitim işlemleri uygulanabilmektedir. Bu çalışmanın amacı, pamuklu örme kumaşlarda pilling üzerine bitim işlemlerinin etkisini incelemektir. Bu amaçla, üç farklı iplik numarası (Ne 20, Ne 30, Ne 40), iplik büküm katsayısı (αe=3,2-3,6-4,0) ve farklı kumaş sıklıklarında (sıkı, orta, gevşek) üretilen ön terbiyesi yapılmış (hidrofilleştirilmiş) %100 pamuk interlok örme kumaşlar, iki farklı enzim ve bir anti-pilling bitim işlem maddesi ile iki farklı konsantrasyonda işleme tabi tutulmuştur. Daha sonra, pilling testleri yapılmış ve sonuçlar istatistiksel olarak karşılaştırılmıştır. Madde tipi, madde konsantrasyonu ve kumaşların yapısal özellikleri bu karşılaştırmada değerlendirilmiştir. Sonuç olarak, pamuklu kumaşların pillinglenme eğiliminin özellikle yüksek konsantrasyondaki poliakrilat esaslı anti-pilling bitim işlemi maddesiyle azaltılabileceği belirlenmiştir

Anahtar Kelimeler:

Pamuk, Selülaz enzimi, Anti-pilling işlemi, Martindale pilling testi, PillGrade

A RESEARCH ABOUT THE EFFECT OF THE ANTIPILLING TREATMENTS ON DIFFERENT STRUCTURED COTTON KNITTED FABRICS

Pilling is one of the main quality problems especially encountered in cotton knitted fabrics. Since the pilling formation can cause decrement in usage life and quality of fabric and also affect the appearance of the fabric negatively, the elimination of this problem is crucially important. In order to eliminate or decrease this problem, usually chemical finishing treatments can be applied to the fabrics. The aim of this study is to analyze the effect of textile finishing processes on the pilling problem of cotton knitted fabrics. For this purpose, the pretreated (scouring treatment) 100% cotton interlock fabrics produced from three different yarn linear densities (Ne 20, Ne 30, Ne 40), yarn twist coefficients (αe=3.2, αe=3.6, αe=4.0) and fabric tightness (dense, middle, loose) were treated with two different enzymes and one anti-pilling finish agent at two different concentration. Then, the pilling tests were carried out and the results were compared with each other statistically. The type and concentration of the agents and the structural characteristics of the fabrics were taken into account in this comparison. As a result, it was found that pilling tendency of the cotton fabrics could be decreased by applying anti-pilling agent based on polyacrylate especially in higher concentration

Keywords:

Cotton, Cellulase enzyme, Anti-pilling finish, Martindale pilling test, PillGrade,

PDF

___

1. Periyasamy, A.P. and Prince, D.B., 2012, “Effect of Fibrillation on Pilling Tendency of Lyocell Fiber”, Indian Textile Journal, Vol.122, No.10, pp:49-54.
2. Schindler, W.D. and Hauser, P.J., 2004, “Anti-Pilling Finishes, Chemical Finishing of Textiles”, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, Cambridge, pp:129-137.
3. Krishnaveni, V., 2011, “Pilling Identification & Steps for Reduction”, The Indian Textile Journal, Vol.121, No.10, pp:80-82.
4. Goyal, R. and Prabhu C.N., 2008, “Anti-Pilling Solutions”, Colourage, Vol.55, No.9, pp:95-97.
5. Aly, A.S., Moustafa, A.B., Hebeish, A., 2004, “Bio-Technological Treatment of Cellulosic Textiles”, Journal of Cleaner Production, Vol.12, No.7, pp:697–705.
6. Csiszar, E., Urbanszki, K., Szakacs, G., 2001, “Biotreatment of Desized Cotton Fabric by Commercial Cellulase and Xylanase Enzymes”, Journal of Molecular Catalysis B: Enzymatic, Vol.11, No.4, pp:1065–1072.
7. Horn, S.J., Kolstad, G.V., Westereng, B., Eijsink, V., 2012, “Novel enzymes for the degradation of cellulose”, Biotechnology for Biofuels, Vol.5, No.45, pp:1- 12.
8. Oinonen, A.M., Londesborough, J., Joutsjoki, V., Lantto, R., Vehmaanperä, J., Primalco Ltd. Biotec, 2004, “Three Cellulases from Melanocarpus Albomyces for Textile Treatment at Neutral pH”, Enzyme and Microbial Technology, Vol.34, No. 3-4, pp:332–341.
9. Carrillo, F., Colom, X., Lopez-Mesas, M., Lis, M.J., Gonzalez, F., Valldeperas, J., 2003, “Cellulase Processing of Lyocell and Viscose Type Fibres: Kinetics Parameters”, Process Biochemistry Vol.39, pp:257-261.
10. Csiszar, E., Losonczi, A., Szakacs, G., Rusznak, I., Bezur, L., Reicher, J., 2001, “Enzymes and Chelating Agent In Cotton Pretreatment”, Journal of Biotechnology, Vol.89, No.2-3, pp:271–279.
11. Bahtiyari, M.İ., Duran, K., Körlü, A., Perinçek, S., 2010, “Usage of Commercial Cellulases In Biopolishing of Viscose Fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, No.1, pp:57-64.
12. Zhang, J., 2006, “Biochemical Study and Technical Applications of Fungal Pectinase”, Faculty of Science and Technology, Uppsala University, PhD thesis, pp:1-42.
13. Diller, G.B., Walsh, W.K., Radhakrishnaiah, P., 1999, “Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on Dyeing and Finishing of Cellulosic Fibers: A Study of the Basic Mechanisms and Optimization of the Process”, National Textile Center Annual Report: November 1999, C96-A01, pp:1-9.
14. Kanchagar, A.P., 2003, “Adsorption of Purified Cellulases on Cotton Fibers", Thesis of Doctor of Philosophy, Athens, Georgia, 2003, pp:1-3. 15. http://en.texsite.info (Access date: Sep 2014).
16. Tusief, M.Q., Mahmood, N., Amin, N., Saleem, M., 2013, “Fabric Tensile Strength as Affected by Different Anti pilling Agents at Various Concentration and pH Levels”, J.Chem.Soc.Pak., Vol.35, No.2, pp:238-242.
17. Körlü, A.E., Duran, K., Bahtiyari, M.İ., Perinçek, S., 2008, “The Effects Of Cellulase Enzymes On Cellulosic Fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Vol.18, No.1, pp:35-41.
18. Mccloskey, S.G., Jump, J.M., 2005, “Bio-Polishing of Polyester and Polyester/Cotton Fabric”, Textile Research Journal, Vol.75, pp:480-484.
19. Hafiza, N., Muhammed, A.Z., Shaukat, A., Tanveer, H., 2014, “Optimization of bio-polishing of polyester/cotton blended fabrics with cellulases prepared from Aspergillus niger”, Indian Journal of Biotechnology, Vol.13, pp:108-113.
20. Ciechañska, D., Struszczyk, H., Miettinen-Oinonen, A., Strobin, G., 2002, “Enzymatic Treatment of Viscose Fibres Based Woven Fabric”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 10, No.4, pp:60- 63.
21. PillGrade Automated 3D Pilling & Fuzz Grade System- Operation Manual, SDL Atlas, Line Tech Industries, Inc., 2008.
22. Wahle, B., Falkowski, J., 2002, “Softeners in Textile Processing Part I: An overview", Review of Progress in Coloration and Related Topics, Vol. 32, Issue 1, pp:118-124