DOĞADAN İLHAM ALAN ÇEVRE DOSTU TASARIMLAR İÇİN BİR POTANSİYEL OLARAK LYOCELL LİFLERİ VE DOĞAL BOYALAR

Bu deneysel çalışmada, çevre dostu bir lif olan lyocell kumaşın renklendirilmesi için, çeşitli bitkiler ve bitkisel atıklardan elde edilen doğal boyar maddeler ile birlikte düşük miktarlarda mordan maddeleri kullanılarak, sürdürülebilirlik ve eko tasarım bağlamında doğal boyamacılığa dikkat çekilmiştir. Çevre dostu rejenere selülozik esaslı bir lif olan lyocell kumaşın çeşitli bitkiler ve bitkisel atıklarla boyanma özellikleri incelenerek bir renk paleti oluşturulmuştur. Kaynakçada lyocell lifinin doğal boyalarla renklendirilmesiyle ilgili az sayıda çalışma bulunmaktadır. Bademin dış yeşil kabuğu, pirina, ceviz kabuğu, soğan kabuğu, nar kabuğu, zerdeçal, kök boya, biberiye ve tarçın gibi doğal boyar madde kaynakları, potasyum alüminyum sülfat (şap), demir II sülfat, bakır II sülfat mordan maddeleri ile birlikte ön mordanlama yöntemine göre boyamada kullanılmışlardır. Genel olarak şap ve bakır II sülfat mordanları ile birbirine yakın tonlar, demir II sülfat mordanı ile en koyu renkler elde edilmiş, doğal boya cinsine bağlı olarak renk tonlarının değiştiği gözlemlenmiştir. Sarı, turuncu, bej, açık pembe, gülkurusu, yağ yeşili, kahverengi, toprak, kimyon renkleri ve tonları elde edilmiştir. Soğan kabuğu, kök boya ve tarçın ile yapılan boyamalarda mordanlar arasında önemli derecede renk tonu farklılıkları olduğu tespit edilmiştir. Görsel kıyaslamanın yanı sıra renk ölçümleri ve yıkama haslık özellikleri değerlendirilmiştir. Mümkün olan en az mordan ve boyar madde miktarları kullanılarak oldukça geniş bir renk paleti ve yıkama haslık değerleri 4-5 olarak elde edilmiştir

Anahtar Kelimeler:

Lyocell, Doğal boyama, Mordan, Tasarım, Sürdürülebilirlik

LYOCELL FIBERS AND NATURAL DYES AS A POTENTIAL FOR ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY DESIGNS INSPIRED BY NATURE

In this experimental study, natural dyeing was highlighted in the context of sustainability and eco design using low amounts of mordants with natural dyes obtained from various plants and plant wastes to dye environmentally friendly lyocell fabric. A color palette was created by examining the dyeing properties of lyocell fabric, an environmentally friendly regenerated cellulosic fiber, with various plants and plant wastes. There are few studies on the dyeing of lyocell fiber with natural dyes in the literature. Natural dyes such as almond husk, olive pomace, walnut shell, onion skin, pomegranate peel, turmeric, madder, rosemary and cinnamon were used in natural dyeing with potassium aluminum sulfate (alum), iron II sulfate, copper II sulfate mordants according to the pre-mordanting method. Generally, similar hues with alum and copper II sulfate mordants and the darkest colours with iron II sulfate mordant were obtained and the colour shades changed depending on the type of natural dye. Shades of yellow, orange, beige, light pink, rose, oil green, brown, earth color and cumin were generated. There are significant colour differences between mordants in dyeings with onion peel, madder and cinnamon. In addition to visual comparison, color measurements and washing fastness properties were evaluated. A quite wide color gamut and washing fastness values of 4-5 were achieved using the minimum possible amounts of mordants and dyes.

Keywords:

Lyocell, Natural dyeing, Mordant, Design, Sustainability,

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