REZERVE BOYA VE BASKI TEKNİKLERİ İLE ÜRETİLEN İNDİGO BOYALI AFRİKA TEKSTİLLERİ

Mavi renk veren doğal kaynaklar tarih boyunca çeşitli topluluklar tarafından tekstillerin renklendirmesinde kullanılmıştır. Sentetik boyar maddelerin gelişmesi ve yaygınlaşmasından önce Afrika toplulukları da tekstilleri maviye boyamak amacıyla farklı indigo kaynaklarına başvurmuşlardır. Bu çalışmada doğal indigo boyanın kaynağına bakılmaksızın rezerve tekniği ile mavi renge boyanmış Afrika tekstilleri incelenmiş ve bu tekstillerin hangi rezerve teknikleriyle, hangi bölgelerde üretildikleri ortaya konulmaya çalışılmıştır. Çalışmada Afrika’da üretilen indigo boyalı rezerve tekstillerin ayrıntılı bir sunumu ve sınıflandırması yapılarak alanyazında bu konudaki eksikliklerin giderilmesi amaçlanmıştır. İndigo boyalar ile renklendirilen tekstillerin çoğunda rezerve boyama tekniklerinin kullanıldığı görülmektedir. Bunlar fiziksel rezerveden kimyasal rezerveye kadar çeşitli şekillerde farklı topluluklarda uygulanmaktadır. Elde edilen bulgulara göre; rezerve tekniği Afrika’da yaygın olarak görülen geleneksel bir tekstil boyama tekniğidir ancak indigo ile rezerve boyama tekniği yoğun olarak Batı Afrika ülkelerinde uygulanmaktadır. Ulaşılan kaynaklarda Batı Afrika haricinde rezerve tekniği ile indigo boyama yapıldığına dair veriler bulunsa da bu uygulamaların geleneksel uygulamalar değil daha çok turizm amacıyla, sentetik boyalarla gerçekleştirilen üretimler olduğu, tekstillerde genellikle üç çeşit indigo kaynağının kullanıldığı ve bazen asıl tekniği gizlemek amacıyla farklı rezerve tekniklerinin görünüşünün taklit edildiği bilgilerine rastlanmıştır. Bu bağlamda Afrika’da zengin çeşitliliğe sahip indigo rezerve boyamaların tekniklerini tespit etmenin hem teorik hem de uygulamalı çalışmayı gerektirdiğini ifade etmek mümkün olmaktadır.

Anahtar Kelimeler:

Afrika Tekstilleri, Rezerve Boyama, Rezerve Baskı, İndigo Boyama, Bağlama Boyama

INDIGO DYED AFRICAN TEXTILES PRODUCED WITH RESIST DYEING AND PRINTING TECHNIQUES

Natural resources that give blue color have been used to color textiles by various communities throughout history. Before the development and widespread use of synthetic dyestuffs, various African communities, as well as the other communities, have used different indigo resources to dye their textiles blue. In this study, regardless of the source of the natural indigo dye, African textiles dyed in blue with the resist technique were examined and it was tried to reveal which reserve techniques and in which regions these textiles were produced. In the study, it is aimed to eliminate the deficiencies in the literature by making a detailed presentation and classification of indigo dyed resist textiles produced in Africa. It can be seen that resist dyeing techniques are used in most of the textiles colored with indigo dyes. These are made in a wide range of techniques from physical resist to chemical resist in various communities. According to the findings; resist dyeing technique is a traditional textile dyeing option that is widely applied in Africa, but resist dyeing with indigo is practiced mostly in West African countries. Although there are data regarding the indigo dyeing with resist technique is done in various regions of Africa besides West Africa, it is seen that these are not traditional dyeing applications but rather produced with synthetic dyes for tourism purposes. It is observed that three types of natural indigo sources are used in textiles colored with natural indigo. In addition, there are examples where the appearance of a particular resist types imitated with different resist techniques in order to conceal the original technique. Therefore, determining the type of resist technique done by using indigo, which has a rich variety in Africa, requires both theoretical and applied work in this field.

Keywords:

African Textiles, Resist Dyeing, Resist Printing, Indigo Dyeing, Tie-dye,

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