COMPARISON BETWEEN NATURALLY COLORED COTTON FABRIC AND WHITE COTTON FABRIC IN MANNER OF PROCESSES IN THE DYEHOUSE

Doğal renkli pamuk, tekstil endüstrisinin ekoloji ve sürdürülebilirlik konularına odaklanmasıyla popülaritesini tekrar kazanmıştır. Doğal renkli pamuğun en önemli özelliklerinden birisi, boyama işleminin olmaması ve boyahanede bazı ön işlemlerin atlanmasıdır. Böylece kimyasal işlem sayıları sınırlandığında daha az su kullanımı, daha az atık su, kimyasalların daha az tüketimi, daha kısa işlem süreleri, daha az enerji kullanımı gibi sonuçlar olacaktır ve bunlar maliyet avantajı yanında, çevre korumaya da büyük katkıda bulunacaktır. Bu çalışmada, bir boyahanenin veri ve metodlarına dayanarak, doğal kahverengi renkli pamuklu örgü kumaşın, beyaz pamuklu örgü kumaşla, boyahanedeki proses adımları ve maliyet açısından bir kıyaslaması yapılmıştır. Hesaplamalar kumaşların üretimdeki işlem adımları göz önüne alınarak yapılmıştır. Doğal renkli pamuk yıkama ve yumuşatma adımları açısından değerlendirilmiştir. Beyaz pamuklu kumaş ise doğal renkli pamuk ile laboratuarda aynı renkte boyanmış ve ağartma, boyama, yıkama ve yumuşatma adımları açısından değerlendirilmiştir. Hesaplamalar ve kıyaslamalar enerji, su, işgücü, elektrik, kimyasal, yardımcı madde ve boyarmadde maliyetleri dikkate alınarak yapılmıştır. Sonuç olarak boyahanedeki tüm işlem akışları değerlendirilmiştir. Doğal renkli pamuklu kumaşın beyaz pamuklu kumaşa nazaran boyahanedeki işlemlerinin 2,9 kez daha ucuz olduğu bulunmuştur.

DOĞAL RENKLİ PAMUKLU VE BEYAZ PAMUKLU KUMAŞIN BOYAHANEDEKİ PROSESLER AÇISINDAN KARŞILAŞTIRMASI

Naturally colored cotton gained its popularity again when textile industry focused on ecology and sustainability concerns. One ofthe most important properties of naturally colored cotton is the avoiding of dyeing process and skipping some pretreatment steps in thedyehouse. So limited chemical treatments will result less usage of water, less waste water, less consumption of chemicals, shortertreatment times, less usage of energy and will add great to the protection of environment besides cost advantageous.In this study a comparison of a natural brown colored cotton knitted fabric with a white one was made in manner of process stepsand cost by the data and methods of a dyehouse. Calculations were made by taking the treatment steps of the fabrics in the productioninto account. Naturally colored cotton was evaluated by washing and softening steps. The white cotton fabric dyed with the same colorof naturally colored cotton in the laboratory and was evaluated by bleaching, dyeing, washing and softening steps. Calculations andcomparisons were made by taking energy, water, labor, electricity, chemical, auxiliary agent and dyestuff costs into account. As theresult all the flowcharts in the dyehouse were evaluated. It was found that treating the naturally colored cotton fabric is 2,9 times lessexpensive than treating white cotton fabric in the dyehouse.

PDF

___

1. http://bettercotton.org, available on july 2016.
2. Dutt Y., Wang X.D., Zhu Y. G., 2004, “Breeding for high yield and fibre quality in coloured cotton”, Plant Breeding, 123, 145-151.
3. Gonçalves M.I.S., Vilar W.T.S., Medeiros E.P., 2015, “A novel strategy for the classification of naturally colored cotton fibers based on digital imaging and pattern recognition techniques”, Anal. Methods, 7, 5869-5875.
4. Frydrych I.K., Matusiak M., Rybicki M., “1287 Textile Material Engineering: Ecotextiles from the Naturally Colored Cotton”, https://www.icac.org/meetings/wcrc/wcrc4/presentations/data/papers/Paper1287.pdf, available on july 2016.
5. “2014 Cotton Report, Turkish Republic Ministry of Customs and Trade General Directorate of Cooperative”, 44 pages, http://koop.gtb.gov.tr/data/53319e1b487c8eb1e43d729d/2014%20Pamuk%20Raporu.pdf, available on july 2016.
6. Park J., Chang Y., Hong W., 2014, “Effects of Color, Scouring Method, and Age on the Visual Sensibility of Naturally Colored Organic Cotton (NaCOC)”, Human Factors and Ergonomics in Manufacturing & Service Industries, 24 (3), 318–327.
7. Cardoso G.D., Alves P.L.C.A., Severino L.S., 2011, “Critical periods of weed control in naturally green colored cotton BRS Verde”, Industrial Crops and Products, 34, 1198– 1202.
8. Ma M., Luo S., Hu Z., 2015, “Antioxidant properties of naturally brown-colored cotton fibers”, Textile Research Journal, 0(00), 1–8
9. Demir A., Özdoğan E., Özdil N., 2011, “Ecological Materials and Methods in the Textile Industry: Atmospheric-Plasma Treatments of Naturally Colored Cotton”, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 119, 1410–1416.
10. Chen H.L., Yokochi A., 2000, “X-ray Diffractometric Study of Microcrystallite Size of Naturally Colored Cottons”, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 76, 1466–1471.
11. Chae Y., Lee M., Cho G., 2011, “Mechanical Properties and Tactile Sensation of Naturally Colored Organic Cotton Fabrics”, Fibers and Polymers, 12(8), 1042-1047
12. Teixeira E.M., Correa A.C., Manzoli A., 2010, “Cellulose Nanofibers From White And Naturally Colored Cotton Fibers”, Cellulose, 17, 595–606.
13. Zhou X., Shi Z., Tang Z., 2012, “Effect Of Laundering Temperature On The Color Of Brown Naturally Colored Cotton”, Advanced Materials Research, 535-537, 1577-1581
14. Matusiak M., Kechagia U., Tsaliki E., “1465 Properties Of The Naturally Colored Cotton And Its Application In The Ecological Textiles”, https://www.icac.org/meetings/wcrc/wcrc4/presentations/data/papers/Paper1465.pdf, available on july 2016.
15. Üte T.B., Oğlakçıoğlu N., Çelik P., 2008, “A Research On Properties Of Natural Colored Cotton/Angora Rabbit Fiber Blended Yarns And Their Effects On Thermal Comfort Properties Of Knitted Fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 18(3), 191-197.
16. Kang S.Y., 2007, “Investigation Of Color Change And Moisture Regain Of Naturally Colored Cotton”, Doctor of Philosophy, Graduate Faculty of The University of Georgia
17. Chae Y., Cho., 2012, “Colorimetric Properties and Color Sensibility of Naturally Colored Organic Cotton Fabrics”, Fibers and Polymers, 13(9), 1154-1158
18. Ma M., Li R., Du Y., 2013 “ Analysis Of Antibacterial Properties Of Naturally Colored Cottons”, Textile Research Journal, 83(5), 462–470
19. Dickerson D.K., Lane E.F., Rodriguez D.F.,1999, “Naturally Colored Cotton: Resistance to Changes in Color and Durability When Refurbished With Selected Laundry Aids”, California Agricultural Technology Institute, Fresno, California,1-38
20. Chen L., Liu Y., Sun W., 2011, “Effect of Concentrated Alkali Treatment on the Properties of Naturally Colored Brown Cotton”, Advanced Materials Research, 332-334, 173-178
21. Parmar M.S., Chakraborty D.M., 2001,“Thermal and Burning Behavior of Naturally Colored Cotton”, Textile Research Journal, 71(12), 1099-1102
22. Feng H.J., Sun J.L., Wang J., 2011, “Genetic Effects And Heterosis Of The Fibre Colour And Quality Of Brown Cotton (Gossypium Hirsutum)”, Plant Breeding, 130, 450-456
23. Hayta Ş., 2003, “Bazı Doğal Renkli Pamuk Hatlarında (Gossypium Hirsutum L.) In Vitro Rejenerasyon”, Yüksek Lisans Tezi, Biyoteknoloji Anabilim Dalı
24. Wang Y.Q., Chen D. J., Wang D.M., 2004, “Over-Expression Of Gastrodia Anti-Fungal Protein Enhances Verticillium Wilt Resistance İn Coloured Cotton”, Plant Breeding, 123, 454-459.
25. Price J.B., Cui X., Calamari T.A., 2001, “Assessing the QuaIity of Four NaturalIy Colored Cottons”, Textile Research Journal, 71(1 l), 993-999
26. Han A., Chae Y., Lee M., 2011, “Effect of Color Changes of Naturally Colored Organic Cotton Fibers on Human Sensory Perception”, Fibers and Polymers, 12(7), 939-945
27. Kang S.Y., Epps H.H., 2009, “Effect Of Scouring And Enzyme Treatment On Moisture Regain Percentage Of Naturally Colored Cottons”, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 100(7), 598-606
28. Değirmenci Z., Kireçci A., Kaynak H.K., 2010, “Investigation of Fastness Properties of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Produced from Natural Color Cotton”, Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi, 4(2), 30-42