ARAKHNE'S LOOM: LUXURIOUS TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN ANCIENT WESTERN ANATOLIA

Arakhne'nin Dokuma Tezgahı: Antik Batı Anadolu'da Yüksek Kalite Tekstil ÜretimiBu makalede, antik kaynakların, arkeolojik buluntuların, özellikle tekstil parçaları ve tekstil üretim aletleri kalıntılarının ve tekstil ile ilgili antik tasvirlerin analizinden yola çıkılarak Antik Batı Anadolu'da yüksek kalite tekstil ve tekstil hammaddeleri üretimi incelenmiştir. Antik kaynakların da açıkca belirttiği gibi Roma Imparatorluk Dönemi'nde Laodikeia gibi bazı Batı Anadolu kentleri, Imparatorluğun yüksek kalite tekstil ihtiyacını karşılayan dokumacılık merkezlerine dönüşmüştür. Bu çalışmada Batı Anadolu'daki yüksek kalite tekstil üretiminin daha erken dönemlerdeki izleri sürülmüş ve aşağıdaki çıkarımlara ulaşılmıştır: Bronz Çağı'nda uluslararası markete yönelik gelişmiş tekstil endüstrisine dair delil azdır. Ancak Demir Çağı'nda Frigya, Lidya, Iyonya, ve Karya bölgelerindeki bazı kentlerin hem domestik hem de uluslararası pazara yönelik yüksek kalite tekstil ve yün, keten ve boya gibi tekstil hammaddeleri üretimi yaptığı gözlenmektedir. Bronz Çağı'ndan itibaren bu pahalı endüstrinin elit kesimin tekelinde olduğu anlaşılır. Bu makalede ayrıca Antik Batı Anadolu'da iyi kalite tekstil üretiminin dört ana kategori altında gerçekleştiği tespit edilmiştir. Bu kategoriler: tekstil boyaları (özellikle kraliyet moru diye de adlandırılan mor tekstil boyası), altın işlemeli tekstiller, yüksek kalite yün ve tül gibi ince keten kumaşıdır. Makalenin ilk kısmında Batı Anadolu'da lüks tekstil endüstrisi kronolojik olarak incelenirken, Fabrics and Patterns (Kumaşlar ve Desenler) adlı ayrı bir bölümde de kısaca antik Batı Anadolu elitinin kıyafet modalarına değinilmiştir. Çalışmanın temel odağı Batı Anadolu'nun Arkaik ve Akamenid Dönemleri yani M.Ö. 7. yüzyıldan 4. yüzyıla kadar olmuş olsa da, gerekli olduğunda Neolitik Dönem'den Roma Imparatorluk Dönemi'ne kadar Batı Anadolu'da lüks tekstil üretimine yönelik bilgilere de değinilmiştir.

Arakhne'nin Dokuma Tezgahı: Antik Batı Anadolu'da Yüksek Kalite Tekstil Üretimi

The fame of the high quality textiles produced in Western Anatolia during the Roman Empire is well attested in a variety of literary and epigraphic sources. As one can deduce from these sources, certain cities of Western Anatolia have become so famous with the textiles they produced that their highly prized products took on the cities' name. The Laodikene chlamys, for example, was a highly priced clothing item produced in Laodikeia of Western Anatolia and exported to all around Roman Empire. This article aims to trace the origin of the tradition of luxurious textile production in ancient Western Anatolia through Bronze Age to the fourth century BCE, with an emphasis on the textual evidence, material evidence, and artistic evidence related to the Archaic and Achaemenid Periods of the region. The overall examination shows that starting with the Bronze Age, Western Anatolia had a significant role in the production and in some cases in the export of luxurious textiles and raw materials used in the manufacture of these textiles in interregional markets. The study also reveals four major specializations in highquality textile production in Western Anatolia: textile dyes (especially the royal purple-dye), gold woven textiles (embroidered with golden threads or decorated with golden appliqués), high quality wool, and fine linen. Starting with the Bronze Age the industry is controlled by the elite. The essay consists of two main parts, a chronological overview of the textile production, followed by a short discussion of the elite clothing fashions in Western Anatolia between the fourth and seventh centuries BCE

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