İlkay ERDOĞAN ORHAN, Fatma Sezer ŞENOL DENİZ

Studies on Natural Cosmetic R & D – From Laboratory to Prototype Product

Cosmetic sector has been developing day by day and more products based on scientific search are released to the market. In this sector, particularly natural cosmetics are in a great demand, which also raises the need for more effective and safe products. Being one of the most important biodiversity spots in the world due to its rich flora, it must be a target for Turkey’s national economy to use plant species in cosmetic preparation as well as branding for our country’s promotion. For this purpose, we have been working on R&D of natural cosmetics using our own herbal sources to produce cosmetics with anti-wrinkle and skin bleaching effect. In this regard, we started to screen over 100 plant species for their anti-wrinkle and skin bleaching potential in our laboratory by enzyme inhibitory assays against tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase using ELISA microtiter methods. The active extracts were subjected to activity-guided fractionation and isolation and then, compounds responsible for the aforementioned inhibitions were elucidated. The active inhibitory molecules were proceeded to in silicoassays using molecular docking techniques. According to our preliminary screening results, the extracts from Vitis vinifera, Camellia sinensis, Cotynus coggygria, Maclura pomifera, and Geranium glaberrimumwere found to be the most active extracts, from which we prepared several cosmetic formulations under the brand name Vitabel. In this paper, summary of our extensive studies on cosmetic R & D conducted in our laboratory which were finalized with prototype cosmetic samples. Our findings indicate that plants are notable biosources for cosmetic research.

Keywords:

Natural cosmetics, anti-wrinkle skin bleaching, R&D,

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