TURKEY FASHION INDUSTRY’S CUT-AND-SEW WASTE PROBLEM AND ITS WASTE MANAGEMENT STRATEGIES

The linear production model of the conventional fashion industry creates “pre-consumption waste” which has devastating environmental impacts. This study focuses on ‘Cut-and-sew waste’, a type of pre-consumption waste which occurs in the pattern cutting phase of the design development process. Thus, the aim of the study is to determine the scope of Turkish fashion industry’s cut-and-sew waste problem, and identify its waste management strategies. Through an analysis on Turkey’s fashion industry, the study addresses “cut-and-sew waste, through an analysis of the opportunities for, and limitations to, the creation of a sustainable design and production system to improve waste management. As a part of the study, a survey was conducted with women’s wear manufacturers producing their own brands in the Turkish fashion industry. A semi-structured questionnaire, responded to by 84 clothing manufacturers, identified the level of the cut-and sew waste problem, and possible waste management strategies are proposed. Data were collected regarding production methods, revealing waste rates within the preparation of the 2016 spring/summer collection. The findings illustrate the current state of the waste problem, and levels of awareness of the fashion industry towards the environmental effects of waste, and the need for waste management strategies.

TÜRKİYE MODA ENDÜSTRİSİNİN KESİM ATIK PROBLEMİ VE ATIK YÖNETİM STRATEJİLERİ

Konvansiyonel moda endüstrisinin doğrusal üretim modeli yıkıcı çevresel etkileri olan “tüketim öncesi atıklar” üretmektedir. Bu çalışmada tüketici öncesi atık tiplerinden biri olan, tasarım geliştirme sürecinin kalıp kesim aşamasında ortaya çıkan ‘kesim’ atıklarına odaklanılmıştır. Buradan hareketle bu çalışmanın amacı Türkiye moda endüstrisinin kesim atıkları probleminin ve atık yönetim stratejilerinin belirlenmesidir. Türkiye'deki moda endüstrisi üzerine yapılan bir analiz aracılığı ile, çalışma sürdürülebilir bir tasarım ve üretim sisteminin oluşturulmasına yönelik imkanların ve sınırlamaların kapsamında “kesim atıkları” nı ele almaktadır. Bu çerçevede, Türkiye moda endüstrisinde kendi markası için üretim yapan 84 kadın giyim üreticisine uygulanan yarı yapılandırılmış bir anket, kesim atıkları probleminin derecesi ve olası atık yönetim stratejilerini önermek için değerlendirilmiştir. Veriler 2016 ilkbahar/yaz koleksiyonu hazırlama aşamasındaki üretim yöntemleri ve atık oranlarından elde edilmiştir. Bulgular atık probleminin şu anki durumunu ve moda endüstrisinin atığın çevresel etkileri ve atık yönetim stratejilerine yönelik farkındalık seviyesini göstermektedir.

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