Esin SARIOĞLU, Elif GÜLTEKİN, Gizem KARAKAN GÜNAYDIN

EFFECT OF SOME PROCESS PARAMETERS ON ACRYLIC YARNS AND KNITTED FABRICS MADE OF THOSE YARNS

High bulk acrylic yarns having relax and unrelax fibre blends with varying ratios are commonly used for knitted fabrics. Within acrylic yarn production, bulking process parameters and blending ratio of relax and unrelax acrylic fiber have considerable effect on the desired yarn volume as well as on optimum yarn properties. This study aimed to investigate the effect of ply twist (tpm), bulking temperature (°C) and bulking machine velocity (m/sec) on acrylic yarn properties as well as on supreme knitted fabric properties from those yarns where a constant blend ratio of relax/unrelax acrylic fibre blends were utilized. For this purpose, three different ply twist (185, 215 and 245 tpm) and bulking machine velocity of three levels (550, 650 and 750 m/sec) were selected. Bulking process was achieved at 110 and 130 °C. Tenacity, elongation, crimp contraction and shrinkage properties of untreated acrylic yarns and of acrylic yarns treated with bulking process were evaluated. Additionally, weft knitted fabrics from those yarns were produced at constant production parameters. Bursting strength, air permeability and pilling properties of acrylic knitted fabrics were compared. In order to obtain the optimum ply twist, bulking temperature and bulking machine velocity regarding to desired yarn and fabric properties, numerical optimization method was used at 5% significance level. According to the test results; it was concluded that ply twist, bulking temperature and bulking machine velocity had significant effect on yarn shrinkage. In addition, interaction of ply twist and bulking temperature was found to be an influential factor on bursting strength, bursting distention and air permeability properties. As a consequence, desirability ratio with the value of 57.2% could be provided for the fabrics with the acrylic yarns produced at 185 tpm ply twist with 614 m/sec bulking machine velocity at 130 °C bulking temperature.

AKRİLİK İPLİKLER VE BU İPLİKLERDEN ÜRETİLEN ÖRME KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE BAZI ÜRETİM PARAMETRELERİNİN ETKİSİ

Değişen oranlarda relakse ve relakse olmamış akrilik liflerin karıştırılmasıyla üretilen yüksek hacimli akrilik iplikler örme kumaşlarda yaygın olarak kullanılmaktadır. Burada, şişirme işlem parametreleri ve relakse/relakse olmamış akrilik liflerinin karışım oranı, istenen iplik hacmi ve optimum iplik özellikleri üzerinde önemli etkiye sahiptir. Bu çalışma kapsamında, sabit karışım oranında relakse/relakse olmamış akrilik lifleri kullanılarak farklı kat bükümünde (tpm), şişirme sıcaklığında (°C) ve şişirme makine hızında (m/sn) üretilmiş iplikler ve bu ipliklerden üretilen örme kumaş özellikleri belirlenmeye çalışılmıştır. Bu amaçla, üç farklı kat büküm (185, 215 ve 245 tpm) ve şişirme makine hızı (550, 650 ve 750 m/sn) seçilmiştir. 110 ve 130 ° C'de şişirme işlemi gerçekleştirilmiştir. Şişirme işlemi yapılmamış ve yapılmış iplik numunelerinin mukavemet, uzama, kıvrım kısalması ve çekme özellikleri belirlenmiştir. Bu iplikler kullanılarak sabit üretim parametrelerinde atkılı örme kumaşlar üretilmiştir. Kumaş numunelerinin patlama mukavemeti, patlama uzaması, hava geçirgenliği ve boncuklanma özellikleri belirlenmiştir. İstenilen iplik ve kumaş özelliklerine göre optimum kat bükümü, şişirme sıcaklığı ve şişirme makine hızını elde etmek için %5 önem seviyesinde sayısal optimizasyon metodu kullanılmıştır. Test sonuçlarına göre; kat bükümü, şişirme sıcaklığı ve şişirme makinesi hızının iplik çekme özelliği üzerinde önemli bir etkiye sahip olduğu belirlenmiştir. Buna ek olarak, kat bükümünün ve şişirme sıcaklığının etkileşiminin patlama mukavemeti, patlama yüksekliği ve hava geçirgenliği üzerinde önemli bir etkiye sahip olduğu bulunmuştur. Sonuç olarak, istenilen hedefe ulaşma oranı %57,2 olan, 185 tpm kat bükümlü 614 m/sn şişirme makinesi hızında ve 130 °C şişirme sıcaklığında üretilen akrilik iplik ve bu iplikten elde edilen örme kumaşta sağlanmıştır.

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