Effect of fabric structure variation on garment aesthetic properties

Bu çalışmada, özel dikim giysilerde kullanılan dokuma kumaşların eğilme ve döküm özellikleri üzerinde kumaş yapısı ve bitim işlemlerindeki küçük varyasyonların etkisi incelenmektedir. Beş çift kumaş ile çalışılmıştır. Bir yapısal parametre veya bitim işlemi tipi, her çiftteki kumaş arasında değişmektedir. Elde edilen sonuçlar, atkı yoğunluğu ve atkı iplik numarasının kumaşın eğilme sertliği ve dökümünü etkileyebileceğini göstermiştir. Etkiler varyasyon derecesi ve test yönüne göre değişmektedir. Eğilme sertliğinde artış ve kumaş dökümü üzerindeki en büyük etki, daha yüksek numaralı çift katlı atkı ipliğinde görülmüştür. Eğilme sertliği ile karşılaştırıldığında, varyasyonların kumaş dökümü üzerinde daha az etkili olduğu görülmüştür.

Giysinin estetik özellikleri üzerinde kumaştaki yapısal varyasyonların etkisi

The paper investigates the effect of slight variation in fabric structure and finishing on bending and drapes properties of woven fabrics for tailored garments. There are five pairs of fabrics investigated. One structural parameter or type of finishing treatment is varied within fabrics in each pair. The results obtained have shown that variation in weft density and weft yarn count can influence fabric bending stiffness and drape. The effects vary with the scale of variation and testing direction. The greatest effect on rising bending stiffness and fabric drape was achieved with the introduction of higher count double ply weft thread. Compared to bending stiffness, the variations investigated have lesser effect on fabric drape.

PDF

___

1. Abbott G.M., Grosberg P. and Leaf G.A.V., 1973, “The elastic resistance to bending of plain woven fabric”, Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol: 64, pp: 346-362
2. De Jong S. and Postle R., 1977, “An energy analysis of woven-fabric mechanics by means of optical-control theory”, part II: pure bending properties, Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol: 68, pp: 362-369
3. Ghosh T.K., Batra S.K. and Barker R.L., 1990, “The bending behaviour of plain-woven fabrics”, part I: Acritical review, Journal of Textile Institute, Vol: 81(3), pp: 245-255
4. Ghosh T.K., Batra S.K. and Barker R.L., 1990, “The bending behaviour of plain-woven fabrics”, part II: The case of bilinear thread-bending behaviour and the effect of fabric set, Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol: 81, pp: 255-271
5. Ghosh T.K., Batra S.K. and Barker R.L., 1990, “The bending behaviour of plain-woven fabrics”, part III: The case of linear thread-bending behaviour, Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol: 81, pp: 273-287
6. Lloyd D.W., Shanahan W. J. and Konopasek M., 1978, “The bending of heavy fabric sheets”, Institut of Journal of Mechanical Science, Vol: 20, pp: 521-527
7. Hu J.L., Shi F.J. and Yu T.X., 1999, “Investigation on bending and creasing of woven fabrics under low curvature”, Journal China Textile University, Vol: 16(2), pp: 26-31
8. Hu J.L., Lo W. and Lo M.T., 2000, “Bending hysteresis of plain woven fabrics in various derections”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 17(30), pp: 20-36
9. Hu J., 2000, “Structure and mechanical of woven fabrics”, Woodhead Publishing Limited, pp: 123-150
10. Cusick G.E., 1968, “The Measurement of Fabric Drape”, Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol: 59(6), pp: 253-260
11. Cusick G.E., 1965, “The Dependence of Fabric on Bending and Shear Stiffness”, Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol: 56(11), pp: 596-606
12. Sudnik Z.N., 1972, “Objective measurement of fabric drape”, Textile Institute and Industries, Vol: 10, pp: 14-18
13. Mooreka H. and Niwa M., 1976, “Relation between drape coefficient and mechanical properties of fabric”, Journal of Textile Milch, 50cl. Japan. Vol: 22(3), pp: 63-67
14. Chen B. and Govindraj H., 1996, “A parametric study of fabric drape”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 66(1), pp: 17-24
15. Jevšnik S., Gubenšek I. and Geršak J., 2004, “The advance engineering methods to plan the behaviour of fused panel”, 2nd International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference, October 3rd to 6th, Dubrovnik, Croatia, pp: 539-544
16. Zhang H., Zhu H. and Zhang J., 2003 “Properties of fabric between bending, creasing and draping, Wool Textile Journal, 3, pp: 58-61
17. Jing M., 2006, “Influence of structure parameters of lightweight worsted fabric on wearing characteristics”, Wool Textile Journal, 5, pp: 48-51
18. Lojen Ž.D. and Jevšnik S., 2007, “Some aspects of fabric drape”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 15, 4(63), pp: 39-45
19. Jevšnik S., Rudolf A., Krašević S.V., Stjepanović Z., Saricam C. and Kalaoğly F., 2010, “Drapability-Parameter for aesthetic appearance of garment“, 2nd Scientific Conference: Development trends in the textile industry - Design, Technology, Management, pp: 76-80
20. Jiang W., 2010, “Relationship between the structure and rigidity and elasticity of light-weight worsted fabrics”, Wool Textile Journal, 3, pp: 49-52
21. BS 3356:1974 Determination of Stiffness of cloth
22. AFNOR NF G 07-109-1980 Notice technique du drapéomètre
23. Leung K.Y.C., Taylor G., Yuen M.M.F. and Kung A., 2000, Draping performance of fabric for 3D garment simulation, 29th Textile Research Symposium at Mt. Fuji, pp: 169-175