ABD’nin Türkmen Pamuğu Yasağı ve Bunun Türkmenistan’ın Türkiye ile Ticaretine Etkisi

Türkmenistan’da pamuk hasadında yaygın şekilde zorunlu işgücünün kullanıldığına dair çok sayıda bağımsız raporun sonucunda ABD yönetimi Türkmenistan’dan pamuk ithalatını 18 Mayıs 2018 tarihinde yasakladı. Önemli bir tekstil ülkesi olan Türkiye ise Türkmenistan’ın pamuk ve pamuklu tekstil ürünü ithalatında en önemli ticari ortağı durumunda ve bu ürünlerin ABD ve Batı piyasalarına Türkiye üzerinden dağıtılmaya devam etmesi de bir ihtimal. Türkmen tekstiline yönelik Türk dış yatırımı bu açıdan analiz edilmeye değer, çünkü bu fabrikalar iç pazar için değil uluslararası piyasalar için üretimlerini sürdürüyorlar. Türk şirketleri sözkonusu yatırımları küresel piyasaları dikkate alarak yaptığı için birçok küresel giyim markasının uluslararası kampanyalar sonucunda tedarik zincirinde Türkmen pamuğu kullanımını yasaklaması iki ülke arasındaki ticari ilişkilere önemli bir etkide bulunmuştur. Makalede literatür taramasına ve mülakatlara dayanarak her iki ülke arasındaki ticari ilişki analiz edilecek ve tekstil endüstrisindeki sosyal tarafların Türkmen pamuğuna yönelik yasağa karşı tutumları değerlendirilecektir. 

The US ban on Turkmen Cotton and It’s Impact on Turkmenistan’s Trade Relationship with Turkey

As a consequence of many independent reports arguing that forced labour is being widely used to pick cotton in Turkmenistan, the U.S. Customs and Border Protection announced a ban on the import of cotton from Turkmenistan on May 18 2018. As a significant textile producer, Turkey is one of the primary global trading partners of Turkmenistan which includes the products made of cotton, and these products may be exported to the U.S. and other Western markets. Turkish foreign investment in the Turkmen garment industry is worth analysing because these textile factories produce mainly for the international market, not for domestic consumption. As Turkish investment in the sector is for export, the outputs are expected to be sold in the global market within the supply chains of global brands. Therefore, the various international campaigns against the country that resulted in corporate decisions to stop sourcing Turkmen cotton—have dealt a blow to the economic relationship of both countries. This article aims to map the trade relations between two countries and summarizing the approaches of social actors in the garment industry based on a literature review and interviews with industry social actors

___

  • Books and Articles
  • Bashimov, G. (2015). Turkmenistan’s comparative advantage in international trade: A case study of textile industry. Adnan Menderes University, Journal of Institute of Social Sciences, 2(2), 12-21.
  • Bashimov, G. (2016). Competitiveness analysis of Turkmenistan’s cotton sector. Journal of Agricultural Faculty of Uludag University, 30(1), 1-16.
  • Bashimov, G., & Çiçek, R. (2016). Determination of central Asia’s comparative advantage in cotton trade. Int. Journal of Management Economics and Business, 12(28).
  • Bashimov, G., & Çiçek, R. (2015). Market structure in Turkmenistan and evaluation of Turkmenistan market in terms of the marketing mix. Karadeniz Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, 7(12), 255-265.
  • Bohr, A. (2016). Turkmenistan: Power, politics and petro-authoritarianism. London: Chatham House.
  • Dinç, A., Yayar, R., & Erol, Y. (2010). Turkmenistan in the 21st century, a general approach from economic, social, administrative, political and cultural aspects. Gaziosmanpaşa University, Faculty of Economics and Administrative Sciences Publications, No 9. Tokat. (In Turkish).
  • Güneş, H. (2004). Development Models in Central Asia in Post-Soviet Period: A Comparative Analysis of the Structural Transformation” in Development and Globalisation Ed by Dedeoğlu, Saniye and Subaşat, Turan. İstanbul: Bağlam Yayınları. (In Turkish).
  • Güneş, H. (2012). “Turkey-Central Asia Relationsin” The Analysis of Turkish Foreign Policy in the 21st Century Ed by Sönmezoğlu, Faruk, Özgür, Nurcan and Terzi, Özlem. İstanbul: DER Yayınları. (In Turkish).
  • Jumayev, I. (2012). “Foreign Trade of Turkmenistan: Trends, Problems and Prospects” University of Central Asia, Institute of Public Policy and Administration Working Paper, No 11.
  • Kandiyoki, D. (2005). The Cotton Sector in Central Asia Economic Policy and Development Challenges. Proceedings of a Conference held at SOAS University of London, 3–4 November.
  • Kovusava, Ş. (2018). Republic of Turkmenistan and macroeconomic structure before and after independence. Göller Bölgesi Aylık Hakemli Ekonomi ve Kültür Dergisi, 5(58), 43-48. (In Turkish).
  • Merrill, M. (2015). Turkmenistan: Fixing decades of damage. International Higher Education, Center for International Higher Education, Campion Hall, Boston College, No 56, USA.
  • Mogilevskii, R. (2012). Trends and patterns in foreign trade of central Asian countries. University of Central Asia, Institute of Public Policy and Administration Working Paper. No 1.
  • Pastor, G., & Rooden, R. van. (2000). Turkmenistan-The burden of current agricultural policies. IMF Working Paper, No 98.
  • Payzyllayev, B. (2007). The Concept of Foreign Direct Investment and Turkish Foreign Direct Investment in Turkmenistan. Unpublished MA Thesis, Selçuk University, Institute of Social Sciences, Konya.
  • Peyrouse, S. (2015). Turkmenistan: strategies of power, dilemmas and development. London: Routledge.
  • Pomfret, R. (2016). Modernizing agriculture in central Asia. Global Journal of Emerging Market Economies, 8(2), 104–125.
  • Pomfret, R. (2014). Trade and human development. Central Asia Human Development Series. United Nations Development Programme Regional Bureau for Europe and the Commonwealth of Independent States.
  • Pomfret, R. (2011). From communism to nationalism by gradual economic reform. School of Economics University of Adelaide, Australia.
  • Stronski, P. (2017). Turkmenistan at twenty-five: The high price of authoritarianism. Carniege Endowment for International Peace. https://carnegieendowment.org/2017/01/30/turkmenistan-at-twenty-five-high-priceof-authoritarianism-pub-67839.
  • Terzioğlu, S. S. (2013). International treaties in the legal system of Turkmenistan. Law & Justice Review, 4(2), 73-87.
  • Turan, G., & Dinç, A. (2015). The history of Turkmen economy from Soviet Slavery to energy empire. Ankara: Gazi Kitabevi. (In Turkish).
  • Vaughan, A. M. (2005). Factors Affecting Plant Density and Cotton Yields in Turkmenistan, Unpublished PhD Thesis. University of Western Sydney, Australia.
  • Media
  • Alternative Turkmenistan News. 14/11/2016. Forced Labor, or Why Turkmen Markets Are Packed with BrandName Textiles, https://habartm.org/archives/6051
  • Alternative Turkmenistan News. 01/09/2018.
  • Turkmenistan Forces State Workers into New Cotton- picking Campaign. https://habartm.org/archives/9434
  • Alternative Turkmenistan News. 02/10/2017. IKEA Bans Turkmen Cotton from its Products. https://habartm. org/archives/7820
  • Alternative Turkmenistan News. 26/01/2017 “Teenagers are less likely to be bought.” Present-day slavery in Turkmenistan in the cotton sector, https://habartm.org/archives/6347
  • Alternative Turkmenistan News. 01/02/2018 “Turkmenistan: 2017 Findings of Forced Labor Monitoring during Cotton Harvesting” https://habartm.org/archives/8496
  • Alternative Turkmenistan News. 27/08/2017, Turkmenistan kicks off mobilization of civil servants for cotton season, https://habartm.org/archives/7611
  • Çağlayan, Z. (2014). Ekonomi Bakanı Zafer Çağlayan Atavatan Türkmenistan İçin Yazdı. http:/www.turkiyeturkmenistan.com/ekonomi-bakani-zafer-caglayan-atavatan-turkmenistan-icin-yazdi/
  • Foreign Economic Relations Board. (2015). Türkmenistan Yatırım Forumu İstanbul’da Gerçekleşti, https:// www.deik.org.tr/basin-aciklamalari-turkmenistan-yatirim-forumu-istanbul-da-gerceklesti
  • Etkihaber 23/09/2009 Türk Şirketinden, Türkmenistan’a Yeni İplik Fabrikası, http://www.etkihaber.com/turksirketinden,-turkmenistana-yeni-iplik-fabrikasi--10862h.htm
  • Ewart-James, J. 05/02/2018. “Gaspar Matalaev: serving time for reporting on forced labour in Turkmenistan’s cotton fields.” Independent. https://www.independent.co.uk/voices/campaigns/voicesindanger/servingtime-for-reporting-on-forced-labour-in-cotton-fields-a8194961.html
  • euroasia.net 29/05/2018. Turkmenistan: Cotton bans and whitewashes https://www.eurasianet.org/turkmenistancotton-bans-and-whitewashes
  • H&M 12/02/2016. Ban on Cotton from Turkmenistan and Syria, https://about.hm.com/en/media/news/ban-oncotton-from-turkmenistan-and-syria.html Hürriyet 22/10/2003. We invested 1 billion Dollar in Turkmenistan, http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/ekonomi/ tekstilde-turmenistana-1-milyar-dolar-yatirdik-178632 (in Turkish)
  • IKEA. Statement: Cotton from Turkmenistan. https://www.ikea.com/ms/en_US/pdf/reports-downloads/IKEA_ Statement_Cotton_from_Turkmenistan.pdf
  • Kapadia, S. 01/06/2018. Apparel brands take a closer look at sourcing after cotton ban. https://www. supplychaindive.com/news/cotton-sourcing-turkmenistan-CBP-forced-labor/524606/
  • Mathews B. 09/08/2018. Child labour concerns return for Turkmenistan cotton - Apparel Insider. https:// apparelinsider.com/child-labour-concerns-return-for-turkmenistan-cotton/
  • Munyar, V. 07/09/2014. Sevmediğimiz hiçbir yere gitmiyoruz, http://www.sanayicidergisi.com.tr/sevmedigimizhicbir-yere-gitmiyoruz-makale,438.html (Interview on Turkish invesment in Turkmenistan)
  • Central Asia Research Centre. 10/09/2018 Türkmenistan 1 milyon tonluk pamuk toplamaya başladı http:// orasam.manas.edu.kg/index.php/tr/turkmenistan/981-t-rkmenistan-1-milyon-tonluk-pamuk-toplamaya-balad
  • Petrick, M. (2016). Agricultural policies in Central Asia: What governments do, why they do it, and what they should do, IAAE Inter-Conference Symposium “Agricultural Transitions along the Silk Road” Almaty, 5 April 2016
  • Rickleton, C. 03/11/2014. Forced Labor Still Systematic in Turkmenistan – Report | Eurasianet, https:// eurasianet.org/forced-labor-still-systematic-in-turkmenistan-report TimeTurk. 25/05/2018.
  • ABD, Türkmenistan’dan pamuklu ürünlerin ithalatını yasakladı! https://www.timeturk. com/abd-turkmenistan-dan-pamuklu-urunlerin-ithalatini-yasakladi/haber-903897
  • Türkyurdu Haber. 23/10/2017. Türkmenistan’da Pamuk Üretimi Yüzleri Güldürdü, https://www.turkyurduhaber. org/haber/28812/turkmenistanda-pamuk-uretimi-yuzleri-guldurdu.html
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown), Why Turkmenistan? http://www.turkiye-turkmenistan.com/is-birligifirsatlari/ (In Turkish) accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Tekstil. http://www.turkiye-turkmenistan.com/is-birligi-firsatlari/ turkmenistan-da-tekstil/ accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Türk Firması Engin Gruba Yeni Projeler Verildi http://www.turkiyeturkmenistan.com/turk-firmasina-onemli-gorev-3/ Accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Türk Firmasından Muhteşem Açılış http://www.turkiye-turkmenistan. com/turk-firmasindan-muhtesem-acilis/ Accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Türk Firmasından Önemli Çalışma, http://www.turkiye-turkmenistan. com/turk-firmasindan-onemli-calisma/ Accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Türkmenistan Pamuk Üretiminde Rekora Koşuyor http://www.turkiyeturkmenistan.com/turkmenistan-pamuk-uretiminde-rekora-kosuyor/ Accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Türkmenistan Tekstil Sanayi’de 1 Milyar Dolarlık Yabancı Yatırım Bekliyor http://www.turkiye-turkmenistan.com/turkmenistan-tekstil-sanayide-1-milyar-dolarlik-yabanciyatirim-bekliyor/ Accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Türkmenistan Tekstil Sergisine Türk Firmaları Damgasını Vurdu http:// www.turkiye-turkmenistan.com/turkmenistan-tekstil-sergisine-turk-firmalari-damgasini-vurdu/ Accessed 14/09/2018
  • Türkiye & Türkmenistan (Unknown) Türkmenistan’da Tekstil Sektörü, http://www.turkiye-turkmenistan.com/ turkmenistanda-tekstil-sektoru/ Accessed 14/09/2018
  • Wikipedia, Economy of Turkmenistan. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Economy_of_Turkmenistan Accessed 14/09/2018.
  • Reports and Blogposts
  • Amnesty International (2018) Turkmenistan 2017/2018 Annual Report. https://www.amnesty.org/en/countries/ europe-and-central-asia/turkmenistan/report-turkmenistan/
  • Ateş, Ş. (2012). Turkmenistan Country Report. KASIAD (In Turkish- prepared for the Business Association in Kocaeli Turkey)
  • CIA, 2018, Turkmenistan Country Report, https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ tx.html
  • Columbia Sports Wear. 2018. Uzbek and Turkmen Cotton – Position Statement, https://www.mountainhardwear. com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-MountainHardwear_US-Library/default/dw3649de41/Media/ Uzbekistan%20and%20Turkmenistan%20Cotton%20Statement%202018.pdf
  • Çalık Cotton. 2014. Kurum Profili 2014, http://calikcotton.com/pdf/Calik-Cotton-Kurum-Profili-2014.pdf
  • Ergon. 2018. Modern slavery reporting: Is there evidence of progress? October 2018. http://ergonassociates.net/ publication/modern-slavery-reporting-evidence-progress/
  • European Commission, Directorate General for Trade, 2018. European Union, Trade in goods with Turkmenistan https://webgate.ec.europa.eu/isdb_results/factsheets/country/details_turkmenistan_en.pdf
  • Exportiamo, 2016. Turkmenistan, the Republic of gas and cotton, http://www.exportiamo.it/areetematiche/12849/turkmenistan-the-republic-of-gas-and-cotton/
  • Konca, Koray Ali. 2011. Turkmenistan Country Report. Dış Ticaret Müsteşarlığı İHRACATI GELİŞTİRME ETÜD MERKEZİ (In Turkish-Centre for Promoting Exportation) Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Republic of Turkey.2016. Economy of Turkmenistan http://www.mfa.gov.tr/ turkmenistan-ekonomisi.tr.mfa (In Turkish)
  • MÜSİAD. 1996. Cotton Union, MÜSİAD Research Report 19 (In Turkish Independent Industrialists’ and Businessmen’s Association MÜSİAD)
  • Samsun TSO. 2016. Turkmenistan Country Report. http://www.samsuntso.org.tr/upload/Dosyalar/Yayinlar/ UlkeRaporlari/Turkmenistan-2016.pdf (In Turkish- Samsun/Turkey Chamber of Industry and Trade)
  • Sırtıoğlu, İ. (2018). Turkey Cotton and Products Annual Report 2018. Global Agricultural Information Network, TR8009, USDA Foreign Agricultural Service
  • Skrivankova, K. (2018). Brands should boycott Turkmenistan cotton over use of forced and child labour, Ethical Trading Initiative Blog. https://www.ethicaltrade.org/blog/brands-should-boycott-turkmenistan-cottonover-use-forced-and-child-labour
  • Skrivankova, K. (2015). Why you could be wearing cotton picked by forced labor, https://edition.cnn. com/2015/10/02/opinions/uzbekistan-turkmenistan-cotton/index.html
  • DEIK Turkish-Turkmen Business Council. 2012. Turkey-Turkmenistan Trade and Business Relations. (In Turkish)
  • United Nations Human Rights Committee. 2012. Human Rights Committee Notes Turkmenistan’s ‘New Willingness’ to Improve Human Rights Record, but Says Gap Remains between Legal Framework, Implementation. 104th Session, 2871st & 2872nd Meetings
  • Interviews
  • Martin Buttle, Ethical Trading Initiative, 22/10/2018
  • Andriette Nomensson, Fair Wear Foundation, 23/10/2018 Dr Nurlan Muminov, Istanbul University, 20/10/2018
  • Şükran Bayçura, Better Cotton Turkey (İyi Pamuk Derneği), 01/11 and 12/11/2018
  • Hale Gülbaz, ITKIB Istanbul Textile Exporters Association, 05/11/2018
  • Muharrem Kayhan TTSIS, Turkish Textile Employers Union, President, 19/10/2018
  • Ülkem Yaman, TGSD, Turkish Clothing Manufacturers Associations, General Secretary, 20/10/2018
  • Engin Çelik, Deriteks Trade Union 06/10/2018 Ergun İşeri, DISK Tekstil 06/10/2018
  • Manager X, Y, Z, T: Managers of Turkish textile plants in Turkmenistan 05 and 07/11/2018
  • Supplier X, Y, Z Turkish suppliers sourcing for global brands 05/10/2018
  • Serdar Akar, Turkish Embassy, Office of Commercial Couselor, Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, 22/10/2018
  • Primark, CSR, 08/11/2018 Inditex, CSR, 31/10/2018 H&M, CSR, 12/11/2018 El Corte Ingles, CSR, 20/10/2018
  • Brand X and Y, Buying Departments, 21/10/2018