CALCULATING THE PERCENTAGE OF BODY MEASUREMENT CHANGES IN DYNAMIC POSTURES IN ORDER TO PROVIDE FIT IN SKIWEAR

The aim of this study is to investigate the local body measurement changes in movements during Alpine skiing and tocalculate these changes in "percentages" in order to use in garment pattern preparing process to achieve the best clothing comfortcharacteristics in alpine skiing suits. For that purpose, an anthropometric measurement study was conducted, which involvedmeasuring 31 male volunteer’s body sizes in static and dynamic postures. Within this context, the sizes to be measured were identifiedas static and dynamic by specifying the anthropometric landmarks on the body using ISAK (The International Society for theAdvancement of Kinanthropometry) practices as the base. It was found that percentage changes in the anterior knee length, anteriorleg length, hip length, elbow length and posterior arm length were 43%, 2%, 35%, 40% and 9%, respectively, from the measurementscollected from 31 male recreational Alpine skiers. Afterwards, regarding to the obtained data, the three body dimensions such asinseam, back waist rise and sleeve length were re-calculated to use in the preparing of pattern for tight-fitting garments. Ultimately, abase layer thermal bottom’s garment patterns were developed and evaluated using a 3D virtual try-on system. Consequently, it wasfound that the inseam length and sleeve length should be reduced while the back waist rise needs extra ease allowance. With respectto the virtual fitting, the developed pattern was more fit than the original pattern and had more ability to adapt dynamic postures.

KAYAK GİYSİLERİNDE VÜCUDA İYİ UYUMUN SAĞLANABİLMESİ İÇİN VÜCUT ÖLÇÜLERİNİN DİNAMİK DURUŞLARDAKİ YÜZDESEL DEĞİŞİMLERİNİN HESAPLANMASI

Bu çalışmanın amacı, kayak sporu Alp disiplini hareketlerinde bölgesel olarak oluşan vücut ölçü değişimlerini araştırmak ve Alp disiplini kıyafetlerinde en iyi giyim konforu özelliklerini elde edebilmek amacıyla giysi kalıbı hazırlığı aşamasında kullanmak üzere bu ölçü değişimlerini yüzdesel olarak hesaplamaktır. Bu amaçla, 31 erkek gönüllünün vücut ölçülerinin statik ve dinamik duruşlarda ölçüldüğü antropometrik bir ölçüm çalışması gerçekleştirilmiştir. Bu bağlamda, vücut üzerinde antropometrik referans noktaları (landmark) belirlenerek, statik ve dinamik olarak alınacak ölçüler ISAK (The International Society for the Advancement of Kinanthropometry- Uluslararası Kineantropometri Geliştirme Topluğu) uygulamaları temel alınarak tanımlanmıştır. 31 erkekten alınan ölçümlerde, ortalama diz ön uzunluğunda, bacak ön uzunluğunda, kalça uzunluğunda, dirsek uzunluğunda ve dış kol uzunluğunda yaşanan değişimlerin sırasıyla %43, %2, %35, %40 ve %9 olduğu belirlenmiştir. Daha sonra, elde edilen veriler ışığında, vücudu saran giysilerin kalıp hazırlığında kullanılmak üzere, iç bacak, arka bel yüksekliği ve kol uzunluğu ölçüleri tekrar hesaplanmıştır. Sonuç olarak, bir alt termal içliğin giysi kalıbı hazırlanmış ve 3B sanal giydirme sistemi kullanılarak vücuda uyumu değerlendirilmiştir. Çalışma sonucunda, iç bacak ve kol uzunluğu ölçülerinin azaltılması gerekirken arka bel yüksekliği ölçüsünün artırılması gerektiği görülmüştür. Sanal giydirme sonuçları değerlendirildiğinde ise, geliştirilen kalıbın orijinal kalıba göre vücuda daha iyi oturduğu ve dinamik duruşlarda vücuda daha iyi uyum sağladığı belirlenmiştir.

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