Jacqueline DOMJANIĆ, Stana KOVAČEVIĆ, Darko UJEVIĆ

DİKİM ESNASINDA OLUŞAN İĞNE BATIŞ KUVVETİ VE KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERININ İNCELENMESİ

AN INVESTIGATION OF FABRIC PROPERTIES AND NEEDLE PENETRATION FORCE DURING TAILORING

Fabrics are the raw material used in clothing production and vary in weave structure, weight, yarn properties, tensile strength and physical-mechanical properties. Together with sewing parameters, fabric properties determine seam quality. Needle penetration force is a dynamic phenomenon and represents quantitative measure of the fabric damage, where a high value of needle penetration force is associated with high risk of fabric damage. In the present study woven fabrics used for tailoring jackets and blazers, were analyzed regarding their physico-mechanical and physical-mechanical properties using the FAST system. Needle penetration force was measured on the ITV measuring system. The aim of the study was first to examine the fabric properties of two basic weave patterns and to discover needle penetration forces based on the selected needle shape and size that could be used in commercial tailorability process. Then, factor analytic technique was used to detect structure between tested variables. The three independent extracted factors were assigned as needle penetration force, physical and mechanical fabric properties and fabric density. Results shoewed that fabric weight and strenght has influence on needle penetration force, whereas physical-mechanical properties, except from extensibility do not have an influence

Keywords:

Woven fabrics, fabric weight FAST system, physical and mechanical fabric properties, needle penetration force,

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