ÇEK ERKEK VÜCUT ORANLARI VE ERKEK GÖMLEK KALIBI HAZIRLAMA METOTLARI ÜZERİNE BİR ARAŞTIRMA
STUDY OF CZECH MALE BODY PROPORTIONS AND EVALUATION OF MEN´S SHIRT PATTERN MAKING METHODS
This study deals with the effect of different male somatotypes on men´s shirt pattern design. First, the research is focused on study the proportions among body dimensions of 200 Czech male (subjects) aged from 18 to 60 years, height; chest and waist that mainly define men clothing sizes. Four men´s shirt pattern making methods; Czech, German, Italian and Chinese were analysed. The results indicate that the shirt patterns are mostly drawn out using a constant value for generating the design dimensions instead of using a regression equation for value calculation. These patternmaking methods are totally inadequate for drafting patterns to fit a wide range of men’s bodies (male morphology). To solve this problem, this paper examines a proposal for a pattern making method for a men´s slim fit shirt that uses the results of regression analysis of anthropometric data of the Czech men to match the pattern design parameters
___
- 1. Musilová B., Komárková P., Kus Z., 2003, “Project on Assessment Methods of Design allowances for looseness of clothing”, Vlákna a textil, Vol:2, pp. 18- 22.
- 2. Komárková P., Glombíková V., 2013, “The effect of anatomical changes in the female body during pregnancy on pattern designs for maternity wear”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Vol: 23 (4), pp. 409 -415.
- 3. Musilová B., Zavadilová V., 2009, “Prediction of design dimensions of upper body block drafting”, Vlákna a textil, Vol:.4, pp. 3-6.
- 4. Zieglerova H., 1990, “Konstrukční dokumentace dámského a pánského prádla z tkanin NVS”, Výzkumný ústav oděvní Prostějov, Vol:1 , pp. 13-15. 5. Műller & Sohn, 1997,“HAKA-Schnittkonstruktionen”, Deutche Bekleidungs-Akademie, München, pp. 110-111.
- 6. Burgo F., 2008, “Il Modellismo”, IST. DI MODA BURGO , pp. 252-255.
- 7. Chan A.P., Fan J., Yu W., 2003, “Men´s Shirt Pattern Design, Part I: An Experimental Evaluatioin of Shirt Pattern Drafting Methods”,Sen’i Gakkaishi, Vol. 59(8), pp. 319-327.
- 8. Musilová B., Zatloukal L. and Kůs Z., 2006, “Somatometric survey of the Czech adult population in relation to the standard EN 13 402”, Strutex 2006, pp. 139-144.