EVALUATION METHODS FOR FABRIC “WAVE” PLASTICITY

Fabric “wave” plasticity is a shaping element of garment, which makes fabric shape into concavo-convex curved shape above the body surface in order to represent clothing style and design ideas. Fabric “wave” plasticity plays a key role in garment silhouette. The purpose of this paper is to research evaluation methods to quantitatively evaluate the fabric “wave” plasticity. A direct evaluation method which was close to the actual use of fabrics was designed. Concavo-convex curved shapes were produced by a self-made shaping model, and “wave” height “H” was used for characterizing the fabric “wave” plasticity. Moreover, for exploring convenient indirect evaluation method of “wave” plasticity, two novel parameters: residual bending curvature and residual shear deformation, were defined. Test results showed that “wave” heights of the fabrics used for different garment silhouettes differ substantially. Multivariate statistical analysis indicated that shear hysteresis of warp at a 0.5° shear angle could be used for evaluating the fabric “wave” plasticity of warp and 45° direction, and “wave” height of weft could be assessed by residual bending curvature of weft. Evaluation methods for fabric “wave” plasticity could help apparel designers to grasp the material properties more exactly and work out the garments with ideal silhouettes.

Keywords:

Fabric “wave” plasticity, Silhouette, Bending property Shearing property, KES-F,

PDF

___

1. Wang, F.M., Zhao, L.H., Qin, L. and Takatera, M., 2009, “Property of PTT shape memory fabric and the application on clothing”, Journal of Xi’an Polytechnic University, Vol: 23(2), pp: 507-512.
2. Niwa, M., Nakanishi, M., Ayada, M. And Kawabata, S., 1998, “Optimum Silhouette Design for Ladies' Garments Based on the Mechanical Properties of a Fabric”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 69, pp: 578-588.
3. Ayada, M., Miki, M. and Niwa, M., 1991, “Discriminating The Silhouette Of Ladies' Garments Based On Fabric Mechanical Properties”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol: 3, pp:18-27.
4. Zhang, X., Li, Y., Yeung, K.W. and Yao, M., 1999, “Fabric Bagging: Part I: Subjective Perception and Psychophysical Mechanism”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 69, pp: 511-518.
5. Yüksekkaya M.E., Howard T. and Adanur S., 2008, “Influence of the Fabric Properties on Fabric Stiffness for the Industrial fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Vol: 18(4), pp: 263-267.
6. Zhao, L.H., Qin, L., Wang, F.M. and Chuah, H.H., 2009, “Factors Affecting Recovery of PTT Shape Memory Fabric to Its Initial Shape”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol: 21, pp: 64-73.
7. Yao, M., Zhou, J. F., Huang, S. Z., et al. 2000, “Textile Materials Science”, China Textile & Apparel Press, Beijing, China, 279.
8. Zhang, X., Li, Y., Yeung, K.W. and Yao, M., 2000, “Viscoelastic Behavior of Fibers during Woven Fabric Bagging”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 70, pp: 751-757.

ISSN: 1300-3356
Yayın Aralığı: Yılda 4 Sayı
Yayıncı: Ege Üniversitesi Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma & Uygulama Merkezi

Arşiv