Yapışkan Telanın Yünlü Kumaşların Sertlik ve Dökümlülük Özellikleri Üzerine Etkisinin İncelenmesi

Yünlü kumaş, mükemmelliği ve doğal özellikleri ile en popüler giysi malzemesidir. Yünlü giysilerde, sırt kısmı, kol evleri, yakalar, takma ve peto cepler, klapalar ve kol manşetleri, daha sert bir görünüm için tela uygulanan bölümlerdir. Tela, giysiye form vermek ve onun rijitliğini arttırmak için giysinin kumaşına yapıştırılan bir kat kumaştır. Bu çalışmada, yapışkan telanın farklı yapısal özelliklere sahip yünlü dokuma kumaşların sertliği ve dökümlülüğü üzerine etkisi araştırılmıştır. Bu amaçla, farklı yapısal özelliklere sahip sekiz yünlü dokuma kumaş numunesi seçilmiştir. Tüm bu kumaş numunelerine aynı yapışkan tela uygulanmıştır. Böylece yapışkan tela içermeyen ve içeren yünlü kumaş numuneleri elde edilmiştir. Sonuçlar, yünlü dokuma kumaşların gramajının, örtme faktörünün ve dokuma yapısının kumaş sertliğini ve dökümlülüğünü etkilediğini göstermiştir. Yapışkan tela içeren tüm yünlü kumaşlar, yapışkan tela içermeyen yünlü kumaşlara göre önemli ölçüde daha yüksek sertlik ve dökümlülük katsayısı değerlerine sahiptir.

Anahtar Kelimeler:

Yapışkan tela, sertlik, dökümlülük, yünlü kumaş

INVESTIGATION OF THE EFFECT OF FUSIBLE INTERLINING ON STIFFNESS AND DRAPABILITY OF WOOLLEN FABRICS

Woollen fabric most popular tailored clothing material because of the fabric excellent and natural properties. In woollen garments, upper back, sleeve holes, collars, lapels, patch and welt pockets, and sleeve cuffs are the areas to apply interlining for more rigid appearance. Interlining is a layer fabric sticked on the fabrics of the garment to give form and to improve stiffness of garment. In this study, the effect of fusible interlining on stiffness and drapability of woollen woven fabrics with different structural properties were investigated. For this purpose, eight woollen woven fabric samples having different structural properties were obtained. Same kind of fusible interlining applied all of these fabric samples. Therefore, woollen fabric samples without fusible interlining and with fusible interlining were obtained. The results showed that the fabric weigth, cover factor and weave structure of woollen woven fabrics effect fabric stiffness and drapability. All woollen fabrics with fusible interlining had significantly higher stiffness and drape coefficient values than woollen fabrics without fusible interlining.

Keywords:

Fusible interlining, stiffness, drapability, woollen fabric,

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