FARKLI DOKUMA TELALAR İLE BİRLEŞTİRİLMİŞ GÖMLEKLİK KUMAŞIN TUTUMUNUN SUBJEKTİF VE OBJEKTİF OLARAK DEĞERLENDİRİLMESİ

Tela, dayanımı desteklemek, form kazandırmak ve esnekliği önlemek amacıyla, giysi kumaşı ile astar arasında yer alan, örme, dokuma veya dokusuz yüzey kumaşlardan elde edilen bir ara katmandır. Tela giysinin iç kısmında kalan görünmez bir parça olmasına rağmen, telanın konstrüksiyonu ile tela ve kumaşın birleştirilme işlemi giysinin dikilebilirliğini, görünümünü, dayanıklılığını, tutumunu ve mekanik özelliklerini etkilemektedir. Bu çalışmada, gömlek üretiminde sıklıkla kullanılan dokuma kumaş ile birleştirilmiş 6 farklı yapışkan dokuma telanın tutum özellikleri subjektif ve objektif metotlar yoluyla incelenmiştir. Farklı dokuma telaların gömleklik kumaşın tutumuna etkisinin araştırılması amaçlanmıştır

Anahtar Kelimeler:

Kumaş tutumu, Tela, Gömlek kumaşı, Kumaş tutumunun subjektif değerlendirme, Dökümlülük açısı, Sıkıştırılabilirlik

SUBJECTIVE AND OBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF THE HANDLE PROPERTIES OF SHIRT FABRIC FUSED WITH DIFFERENT WOVEN INTERLININGS

Interlining is a layer of knitted, woven or non-woven fabric placed between the garment fabrics and facing to reinforce, to give form and to prevent stretching. Although interlining is an invisible interior part of a garment, the interlining construction and the fusion process of interlining and shell fabric affect sewability, appearance, durability, handle and mechanical properties of the garment. In this study, the handle properties of a woven fabric fused with 6 different woven fusible interlinings that are usually used for manufacturing of shirts were examined by subjective and objective methods. The aim of this paper is to research the effects of different woven interlinings to the handle properties of shirt fabric

Keywords:

Fabric handle, Interlining, Shirt fabric, Subjective evaluation of fabric handle, Drape angle, Compressibility,

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