Sıfır Atık Moda Tasarımı ve Yapboz, Mozaik ve Çıkarma Kesim Yöntemlerinin İncelenmesi

Moda döngüsünün hız kazanması, bu döngünün çevreye verdiği zararı da artmıştır. Bu nedenle, moda üretiminin neden olduğu kumaş kesim atığını azaltmaya yönelik bir çözüm önerisi olarak sıfır atık moda tasarım yöntemi konusu ele alınmıştır. Bu çalışmanın amacı sıfır atık moda tasarımının incelemesi, literatürde en çok yer alan yöntemlerle incelenmesi ve geleneksel moda endüstrisi gözünden sürecin ele alınarak analiz edilmesidir. Bu çalışmada, atığın oluşumunu engelleyecek bir tasarım yöntemi olan sıfır atık moda tasarımı, sıfır atık moda yöntemini kullanan moda tasarımcıları ve başvurdukları teknikler ile birlikte incelenmiştir. Sıfır atık moda tasarımı, üç boyutlu giysi tasarımını oluştururken iki boyutlu kalıp tasarımının senkronize bir şekilde planlanması ile giysi tasarlanırken kalıp parçaları arasındaki kumaş firelerinin yok edilmesi ile mümkündür. Sıfır atık moda tasarım yöntemleri olan yap-boz, mozaik ve çıkarma kesim (Jigsaw puzzle, tesellation ve sub-cut) yöntemleri bu yöntemlerin geliştirilmesinde etkin olan tasarımcılar Timo Rissanen, Holly McQuillan ve Julian Robert’ın tasarım giysileri ile birlikte ele alınmıştır. Sonuç olarak, sıfır atık moda tasarım yöntemleri giysi tasarım aşamasında atığın oluşumunu engellemektedir.

Zero Waste Fashon Desıgn and Jıgsaw Puzzle, Tesselatıon, and Analysıng of Subtractıon Cutting Methods

The acceleration of the fashion cycle has increased the damage of this cycle to the environment. For this reason, the zero waste fashion design method is discussed as a solution proposal to eliminate cut-and-sew waste caused by fashion production. The aim of this study is to analyze the zero waste fashion design to investigate it with the most common methods in the literature, and to analyze the process from the perspective of the conventional fashion industry. In this study, zero waste fashion design which is a design method that will prevent waste generation, designers employing the zero waste fashion method and their methods were investigated. Zero waste fashion design is possible by eliminating the fabric waste between the pattern parts by making the two-dimensional pattern design synchronously while designing three-dimensional garment design. Jigsaw puzzle, tessellation, and subtraction cut methods and designers who developed those methods such as Timo Rissanen, Holly McQuillan and Julian Robert were investigated with their designed garments. Consequently, zero waste fashion design methods prevent cut-and-sew waste before it occurs.

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