Gamze KURTULUŞ, Orçun TOKSÖZ, Cenk SESAL

Trachystemon orientalis L. Ekstraktlarının Kozmetik Endüstrisinde Kullanım Potansiyeli: Cilt Koruyucu, Güneş Koruyucu ve Yaşlanma Karşıtı İçerikleri

Son yıllarda kozmetik alanında kullanılan ürünlerin bitkisel kaynaklı olması daha çok tercih edilir hale gelmiştir. Özellikle antioksidan özelliği yüksek bitkilerin kozmetik ürünlerin içeriğinde yer alması öncelikli istek haline gelmiştir. Sadece yöre halkı tarafından kullanılan endemik bitkiler, başta kozmetik olmak üzere farklı endüstrilerde kullanılmak üzere yetiştirilirse ekonomik açıdan daha karlı olacaktır. T.orientalis, Türkiye'nin sadece Karadeniz bölgesinde yetişen endemik bir türdür. Bu çalışma, bu bitki ekstraktlarının kozmetik endüstrisinde kullanım potansiyeline sahip olduğunu göstermeyi amaçlamaktadır. Bu amaçla öncelikle T.orientalis'in gövde, çiçek ve yaprak kısımları aseton ile ekstrakte edilmiş ve antioksidan aktiviteleri ölçülmüştür. Sonuçlara göre antioksidan aktivite özellikle gövde ekstraktlarında (DPPH 57,12 mg L-askorbik asit/g; toplam fenol 288,10 ± 8,55 mg/g kuru ağırlık) yüksek bulunmuştur. Daha sonra ekstraktların S. aureus üzerindeki antibakteriyel aktivitesi araştırılmıştır fakat etkili bir aktivite bulunamamıştır. Ayrıca SPF değerleri ve kollajenaz, tirozinaz ve elastaz inhibe edici aktiviteleri ölçülmüştür. En iyi sonuçlar gövde (SPF 31,18 ± %0,18; anti-kollajenaz %87,25; anti-tirozinaz %11,47; anti-elastaz %57,64) ve yaprak ekstraktlarında (SPF 31, %27 ± 0,24; anti-kollajenaz %97,57; anti-tirozinaz %15,03; anti-elastaz ND) tespit edilmiştir. Sonuç olarak, T.orientalis'in özellikle gövde kısımlarının kozmetikte fotokoruyucu ve yaşlanma karşıtı olarak kullanılabileceği ön görülmüştür.

Anahtar Kelimeler:

kozmetik, bitkisel kaynaklar, güneş koruyucu faktör, fotokoruyucu, antioksidan, yaşlanma karşıtı

Potential Application of Trachystemon orientalis L. Extracts in the Cosmetic Industries: Skincare, Photoprotective and Antiaging Ingredients

In recent years, it has become more preferable for the products to be used in cosmetics to be of herbal origin. In particular, plants with high antioxidant properties are preferred to be the source for cosmetic products. Endemic plants, which are used only by the local people, will be more profitable economically if they are grown for use in different industries, especially in cosmetics. T.orientalis is an endemic species that grows only in the Black Sea region of Turkey. This study aims to show that these plant extracts have the potential for use in the cosmetic industry. For this purpose, firstly the stem, flower, and leaf parts of T.orientalis were extracted with acetone and their antioxidant activities were measured. According to the results, antioxidant activity was especially high in stem extracts (DPPH 57,12 mg L-ascorbic acid/g; total phenol 288,10 ± 8,55 mg/g dry weight). Then, the antibacterial activity of the extracts on S. aureus was investigated. As a result, no effective activity was found. In addition, SPF values and collagenase, tyrosinase, and elastase inhibiting activities were measured. The best results were observed in the stem (SPF 31,18 ± 0,18%; anti-collagenase 87,25%; anti-tyrosinase 11,47%; anti-elastase 57,64%) and leaf extracts (SPF 31,27 ± 0,24%; anti-collagenase 97,57%; anti-tyrosinase 15,03%; anti-elastase ND). As a result, it has been seen that especially the stem parts of T.orientalis can be used as an ingredient for photoprotective and antiaging purposes in cosmetics.

Keywords:

cosmetics, herbal sources, sun protection factor, photoprotective, antioxidant, antiaging,

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